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Ahaha, nice one, cracked me up. Some day I might steal that one in Florida form.

Now you can say hi if you see me :) License plate frame is off of my Spec V daily, I rep some Nissan while in my Toyota, and some Toyota while in my Nissan. Spread the love around.

I am afraid of my 2 piece driveshaft and worn out carrier bearing exploding, so 120mph for me.

Coming over from a couple Nissans and a couple Jeeps to my first Toyota, I couldn't figure out what the damn coolant light was when I first got my Supra. I asked my Toyota buddy "what the hell is this circus tent that keeps lighting up randomly on my dash." True story. So now you know what...

Since they were mentioned, EBC RedStuff pads are great for a performance street car, just like they say. I have them on my DD (used to autocross/drag race it with these pads, but it is much lighter/better brake setup than the Supra) and if I change pads before I got to a BBK, I will buy them...

The only way he could have changed his fuel cut point with a MAP sensor was if he put a sensor in there with a totally different scale, as the ECU reads a voltage (4.2 ish, I don't remember the exact V) from the MAP sensor. So the map sensor could output to infinity but if the scale is the same...

My stock R154 clutch was just fine on the street at 17ish psi on a single 1J setup. 320-340ish whp maybe? Ran pretty well. Took it to the track and on my second run pulled a perfect launch and then roasted the clutch the whole way down. That was the end of my stock clutch days. It was an...

If I was even going to consider it, I would do it on a 240sx/240Z way before I would ever do this to a Supra. Much lighter/faster/easier/cheaper.

Try to take good pictures when you find something. Poodles sounds right with a clutch hub problem, hopefully anyway. Otherwise you could be looking at some bad crankwalk. I don't know if it's the clutch fork itself though touching the pressure plate with pedal application unless somehow the...

I would love not to have a cold-start period at all, as I want rpms to be as low as possible as the oil first circulates and warms. I haven't figured out how to pull that off quite yet, as if I adjust anything or try to close the ISCV any more, I will get too low of an idle when fully warmed...

To add to my earlier story, I also tried new hoses (got samco rad hoses, still using them), tried a new t-stat and no t-stat, and a new rad cap before I went crazy on everything like in my post on page 1. I'm still pretty sure it was either a headgasket leak or my original radiator was so shot...

I had the same problem on my single 1JZ. I also had crappy rusty coolant, and was losing just a bit of coolant (I think it was mostly getting pushed out of the overflow). I did a couple full flushes and it didn't help. Still had the same cruising overheating (on my 45 minute drive to work...

Both my camshafts were difficult to turn a complete revolution, I'm pretty sure that's normal. I never tried by hand though, always used a crescent wrench. I would be worried about the "easy" one, the cam has to press down the valve springs which takes a bit of force to overcome. They get easier...

There are alot of people on here with the Mishimoto. I'm all for quality parts, besides these mechanical fan warping at high load and striking the radiator (not applicable to my car and doesn't affect everyone) and maybe some stock upper mount problems? (don't remember, not applicable to my car...

Found this in my folder of Aristo/1JZ/MKIII Supra schematics. It's marked "Aristo TT Pinout" and it's not the ECU. Is that what you're looking for?

That's exactly what you do. You just sit back and enjoy it. Even laugh at it. I went at the midnight release where almost everyone there was FnF fans, and we all just laughed and loved the incredible parts. My only gripe was there should have been more cool car porn and racing, but I guess...

Inline resistors, that's pretty trick and honestly never crossed my mind until now.

Mine doesn't reach the stock location, but it may be routed differently than Gurley's. (This is all previous owner work, haven't taken it all apart. I just know it comes through that hole, goes behind the center dash and ends up in the glove box.) My ECU just sits awkwardly in my glove box, I...

I bet you could get at least half of the listed "new" price for them if they really have 0 miles. Which is a lot more than what you bought them for. Clean them up best you can first and explain in your sale that you just test fit them on your build car and never drove on them.

I would extend the harness. Seriously, I have this setup from a previous owner and it is stretched taut basically and still isn't long enough to really go where it needs to go or make it less than a total bitch to work on the ECU and wiring near it. It also found a way to wear into the harness...