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Intake side, well it can be either cam cover gaskets, oil pan gasket or worse head gasket leaking. There isn't to many places oil can come from on the intake side of the engine. Clean it up the best you can, put some die in your oil, drive around a few miles, then take your black light and...

????????? main seals are on the front and rear of the engine.

Same thing I was thinking, :biglaugh: Need more pics in this thread and a better camera. Cell phone camera for a build thread = fail ;)

Just pull your cam covers, get your self some feeler gauges and check them. Intake side should be .006-.010" & Exhause side should be .008-.012" Cold.

How far along are you on your sup? Also about BIR I thought about it but you were there on dyno day and I dont have much to prove yet with only 308 tq. Update: Today should suck, I just pick up a few little clips clips that were broken so time to replace them. Also pick up the N/A union for...

Nope, no way to bypass it that I know of or heard of. Just install new shielded wire to them with some new ends from toyota and do a rewire. If anything send shaeff a pm and pick up one of his re-wire kits. It comes pretty much ready to go for cheap (way less than $100). All you have to do...

Ambinet was only around 75 degrees, idleing with the a/c set to 65 without recirculation on. Edit: after reading some of the threads, The vacuum was pulled down to 26-27 in/hg if that make any differance Sounds good, you provide the beer ;). BTW It gets plenty warm and humid up here too...

ROFL, next time you can come along and play ;) Did you head over to Dan's last night then? Thank you, the only problem is that there Sean's (funky_monkey), so I have to give them back once he gets his sup up and running. And yes the rims have grown on me big time.

I think the NSX fits everything but the price tag. Lets see here, 5-speed manual tranmission, rear wheel drive, 2 door, 270 hp, 210 tq, mid-engine :evil2:

1992 Acura NSX :)

Pic of nice and cold A/C with R134 in the OEM system.

Im not sure where you guys are at in this conversation but I just had my OEM system charged up with R134 and it blows nice and cold. We first pulled a vacuum (fixed one leaking oring) then put a can of R134 oil converter stuff in then put in around 1.32-1.35 lbs of R134. Proof is in the pic...

Whoo this 20 year A/C system still works!!! Went over to Don's house yesterday and decided to try get the A/C working. We converted it over to R134 and fould only one leak in the system that was a easy fix, just had to replace the oring. At first we thought the A/C fuse was shot but ended...

First, stop running people off the road then second go and check your codes again. Code 51 = you need to calibrate your TPS Code 52 = makes since since it will come up when your knock sensor or wiring for the KS is bad.

I would just call it part of the factory exhaust manifold

If you have a bad/broken knock sensor your CEL WILL come on, it might not be right away but will come on as soon as you start to drive. Check your codes, fix what is broken by what your codes are telling you = fixed CEL. As for your brake lights I have no idea what you are saying, a friend...

ge = N/A = header gte = turbo = downpipe Correct terminology will get you a long ways ;)

No problem bud.

This past weekend cleaned her up and met up with a couple other supras from the area.

It is the best, I don't know but I use meguiars gold class™ leather cleaner & conditioner