Search results

There is a little bit of truth to that statement, but I have one of those 2.5 engines that make torque, 433 wheel hp and 435 torque. Jay, Your car sounds good and Im sure it runs great also. Now go back to the dyno and make some torque! :biglaugh::sarcasm: Congrats! I'll let you enjoy it...

In this picture, it looks like you routed the coolers the wrong way. The one with the heat sinks on it, attaches to the bumper support. The one that does the loops goes attached to the header panel. Everything else looks good. :evil2: PS. Get rid of the 7M oil cooler!

My 200,000 mile turbos are on some elses car already, no smoking at all. High EGT's from higher boost will kill them if you dont have the right octane gas.

I Agree with you, but those guys are Running VP import or C16 or higher right? Most of us run on 93 or 91, at that octane level and higher boost, im sure you would like your investment to be protected by everything gizzmo possible. By the time you hear knock, the engine has already seen...

The Alternator Wire goes thru the big fuse box connector, It doesn't need to be extended. The main, big charge wire is the only one to extend.

The Fuse box is the most simple part of the swap. I think you made it complicated. It's fine, for a first timer you are in the right track. Here is the only connector you change in the fuse box, I circled it in green.

You got Mail!

Aaron, Use some marvel mistery oil after you change alll the seals and you can literaly watch that stuff come off. We dont take apart the clips at all, we just do a comp check, leak down and start them up. On the fuel lines, I like to use the preasure line from the clip that is at the...

Sweet! If anything is needed please call me, I can get all parts for any JZ engines. If you have issues with your swap please don’t hesitate to call.

The last 2jz that we built for a MK4 guy made 28 RWHP, by playing with the exhaust cam. The head was stock, with just upgraded springs. The car was auto and at 14 psi the car made 405 RWHP. Talk about building an efficient engine.

So it's safe to asume that everything has gone well with shipping? Please keep me updated! BTW Spark plugs are Gapped and ready to run!

Jay, he is right about the oil pumps. You need to use a GTE pump. Ok bye!

Those numbers are dead on for 18 PSI on stock twins. The dyno you used measures to the wheel horsepower, but the owner of that dyno has not done a software upgrade to show the correct header on the top of the screen. Next thing for you to watch out for on pump gas is, the EGT's on those stock...

If you use the 2jz water neck and 2jz bypass tube, it works!

Engine is on it's way, I'm waiting for the tracking info. We should have that tomorrow!

Hello guys, Wayne's new engine happens to be my old engine out of my Soapra. I pulled the engine out running and making 400+ hp with no problems. The timing belt is a HKS belt that has about 2500 miles on it. Its wierd that it's doing any of this. I still think it's running rich. Wayne I have...

Mark I did it with my HKS pea shooters :biglaugh: When trying to set the cold setting on the Stinger, do you bump up the timming to try to make it iddle? I'm trying to find out one thing and it may have to do with that. Can't say just yet but I will get to the end of this soon.

It goes to nothing on 7M. It's just there for no reason.

Mark, my AFCneo allowed me to make 433 Hp with 435 rwtq. If I had 550's I could of made 500 easy! I made that power with only 440's and everything else stock. The stinger is a good box, but I have reached the limits of the stinger and have seen the drawbacks of using it. I can't stress how...

AEM works with all stock sensors. The need for the aftermarket sensors is based on higher resolution. The AEM has knock control. You can't beat that for the price. The support is big for the AEM. AEM box has iddle speed control and it's by far the only box aside from HKS FconV pro that will work...