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Emp, I've done crazier things, PM me if you want.

I had a good one over here recently. Kicked my ass for a while before I figured out that every time the fuel pump switched over to 12v operation it would pull the voltage on the EFI circuit down to ~7v (aggrivated by electric cooling fans). Car ran fine at WOT and most times but would stall...

Want me to come scoop it up? :evil2:

Opens with Adobe reader. If you are having issues getting this far, you would likely be better off just bringing it to a shop to have them take care of it. Titan is in Florida and has plenty of AEM experience.

GT55 is a little peaky but works ok (BL has one on thier 6 speed) and 10k is pretty normal for a H.O. 2JZ. A nice 250 shot will make it even happier though.

Best way to do it is to pressurize the system and listen for leaks. You will find a million things you'd never see that way. If your wastegate doesn't open, that can be bad. Thank the fuel cut for saving you an engine rebuild. You should probably look into that first. Maybe an MBC installed...

You most likely have a boost leak if you are hitting fuel cut at 13ish with an upgraded CT. Once you fix that, you should be able to run quite a bit more boost without cut. To adjust the point where the fuel cuts off, turn up the fuel pressure and then back out the bypass screw in the AFM a...

Under sensors>MAP sensor>options check "MAP analog input". It should be set to MAP voltage.

You bringing it to Texas Sean? I want to see how you got those 28" slicks in there. I can barely fit a 26x11.50 on mine.

Why do you need an FCD? You already have the correct means to safely bypass the fuel cut...

Rennat- good rule of thumb is 1 range colder for every extra 100 hp. You could go stock or 1 step colder depending on how hard you push...

LPG is pretty hard to light though Ian. Those stupid Cavaliers I used to work on were slow as balls before they picked up a miss...

I have to run about a .003" smaller gap to get the same performance out of iridium plugs compared to copper. But then again, I've had a few sets running around in some crazy cars for more than a year without having to change them or losing any performance. Some of those cars were eating 2 sets...

What did you do grumpy?

Like back to back to back highway roll ons up past 160 at 30+ pounds of boost? Copper does allow for a weaker ignition system to fire a denser charge than Iridium. It got annoying changing them every weekend though.

Been running Denso Iridiums in several 800+ whp cars for a while now. No problems "glow plugging" here. Get the correct heat range for your application. Also, scrap that center valley cover and you don't have to worry about JIS plug height anymore.

Hey Nick, true that. Been dusting my mk3 off after a bit of a 2JZ induced vacation (haha) so I figured I'd see what was up over here. Carfreek- Sounds like you may be one of the few who actually take care of your 7M, keep up the good work!

You need the fat A:F due to high cylinder pressure @ WOT, not high intake manifold pressure. Don't worry about it unless you hear pinging (pretty easy to hear at part throttle).

Yes, you will need to purchase one of the many available 2JZ aftermarket fuel rail kits and some various lines and fittings to make it work.

Nice no start thread, LOL. Oil should be selected based on intended use. The 5 or 10w30 is fine for daily drivers with occasional quick WOT bursts, most of your wear will be on cold starts and you should try to minimize it. For engines that get run hard, a thicker oil is going to minimize the...