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If you aren't sure if your foot was on the gas pedal, then we can't help you lol Practice driving the stick abit better then come back to us when you know if it's your fault or not ;)

Your browser probably isn't displaying it properly :biglaugh:

Aha!! I was finally able to make it switch directions :) Turns out (not that it's going to surprise to anyone) that it's just an optical illusion and doesn't mean anything: http://scienceline.org/2007/10/29/ask-hsu-spinning-girl-right-left-brain-hemispheres/

Hmm, i cannot get it to go counter-clockwise! Which is strange because the left brain functions are definitely much more descriptive of me, especially the first 3...

...maybe you should read my post again The pump does not run with just the key in the on position, it must be starting or running

I don't recall off the top of my head, but I believe it's the ign signal that starts the fuel pump I know for sure the pump will not run with the key in the on position, unless the car is running or being started. (or the diag box is jumpered)

If the harmonic balancer is pointing at 0 degrees, and cylinder 1 is not at TDC, then your woodruff key is probably fubar :( I suppose it could be the balancer itself but I haven't heard of that one yet

Like someone has already said before, You need to spec out and calibrate your TPS. Even if you get a new one it will give a error code if not set correctly. (also your foot better not be touching the accelerator when you check for codes! That will also throw a 51) And you cannot set timing...

Yes. I would definitely check your timing, however I would be suspect that if your "car comes alive when u spray ether in the TB" then you may not be getting fuel into the combustion chamber. To test the AFM; Air induction system: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=1

Go to the Tech Tips / Reference forum and read a thread with Paint in the title.

You know what, the instructions could be worded abit more clearly, because I read them first and still tried to do the same thing! I was determined to unscrew the top part of the housing, even after I removed that nut, and it still would NOT come off! That oring had a hell of a seal on it...

Rofl!! Ok, You get to be the captain!! Geez and I thought my 2 years was bad :biglaugh:

We should start a 1+ year build club ;) If I remember correctly, I believe me and Reign would be the captains :biglaugh:

I don't mind the green display... Maybe when I take it out to debug the non-working leds, I might get a new display My To-Do list has a majority of the items knocked off the list, except for the ones that involve the most work :biglaugh:

I'm pretty sure Ian was asking where they are in relation to the cylinder bores or cooling passages, etc... :) I don't think any gasket can compare to the Stopper, but Cometic is the most forgiving as far as surface imperfections, but still very strict compared to composite gaskets

I could understand the confusion though... I'm a little confused too lol

Wow, they're in Washington too I should try and get a job there :biglaugh:

So I paid just under $100 for a quart of PPG corrosion resistant primer, and the catalyzer... Good paint is painfully expensive :( I thought I finished my climate control as well, but for some reason, a few of the leds don't work, even though I made sure I got the polarity correct on all the...

http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/vacuum_hose.aspx Look at the cruise control vacuum diagram, goes to a T, which connects to a hardline on one side (that connects to the heater valve on the firewall) and the cruise control / boost sensor

Ooooh very clean :) I'm not sure why I'm going to bother subscribing, since it will probably NEVER get updated, but I suppose I am still interested in seeing what you do accomplish every now and then :biglaugh: