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you can't raise the idle. it's controlled by the ecu. don't even try to set the dashpot or anything, you'll phuck things up bigtime. I was thinking, you're saying you did the lexriemer mod. What injectors did you use? new ones? second hand? did you have them tested? How's the honeycomb on the...

Take off your ICSV and clean it, and check your TPS as per tsrm.

Check your wiring also. You've been fiddling with the afm plug by plugging/unplugging a lot. The wires tend to break over time and not make good contact. Apart from that i'd try another afm first.

^ Correct :)

Good luck. Could you please let me if the excel document was helpful or not? I made it some years back and never got any feedback. I'd like to know whether it's correct and usable or not :)

Correct. I put a 91/92 harness into my 89 chassis/engine and among the extra wires were those for the airbag and oil level sender. Possibly, there are some wires for the headlight motors too. ? And I also recall putting some wires from one plug to another. I did a write-up in an excel document...

the white one by the brake booster isn't used on most supras here in europe. i've read somewehere that it belongs to the factory alarm system, so I figure it could be the horn. I cut it off and used it for my automatic to manual swap. I didn't get a harness for my r154 at the time and that...

Sounds like a vacuum related problem. No error codes? Check to see if the TB gasket is holding up. :)

you should see the CEL light coming on when turning the key. if not, there's no power to your ecu.

Could be however it's much more likely that you have a leak between your elbow and the downpipe if the smoke stays in the engine bay. (I've had this problem)

should connect the white and black one to a blue and a black one. I've made some sort of manual some time ago. It's made up of information found here and supraforums. http://www.shoarmateam.nl/upload/auto-to-manual-r154-english.doc hth.

Knock codes will put your ecu in safe mode. You won't be able to boost. Please correct that first and try again. If you still can't boost after fixing that check for error codes again and post them here.

So you found a faulty wire but you want to change ecu's ? Is it just me or does that sound al little strange? Did you try replacing the cps or the wire to the ecu ? 20 year old wires tend to wear and break from time to time.

To explain that: We don't use water. we use coolant. Toyota just calls it that way for some odd reason. EFI stands for electronic fuel injecton. That part is done by the ECU. Therefore, when talking EFI we're talking ECU. Last but not least: While the picture says ""ECU Coolant Sensor", We put...

Thanks :) The blue car is mine. Next to the 316 whp (would be around 330 if the boostcontroller would hold boostl) and 355 EngHP it pulled a whopping 594NM of torque. I've heard that is really a lot for a 57 trim 7M. Rest of the results: Grey supra: 414,9 EngHP 508 Nm 7M with 60 trim @ 1.3...

Well actually we couldn't hear the cars very well because of the sound of the cooling fans. So even with just the pure sound recorded at the dyno the moviesounds suck :( mods in short: blue car: 57 trim with supporting mods + 2.5" exhaust + s-afc + hks evc1 @ 1 bar grey car : 60-2 trim...

Hello there, this here is a compilation i put together of a dyno meeting we've held in the netherlands past weekend. I don't have the video footage of all cars because of harddrive faillure on the cam so you'll have to put up with this... Among us that day: 1 chaser 1jz vvti single turbo...

I believe this type AFM works with small mirrors inside. Cleaning it with carb cleaner or running compressed air through it will surely ruin the AFM. And yes, just the electrical part. the housing is not going to break down as it's just a piece of metal with a honeycomb structure in it (karman...

AFM could be due to the lack of an air filter. you can't clean the AFM. If it's dirty, it's broken. replace it. Turbo pressure abnormal can be due to an air leak, or the AFM going bad and giving your ecu hell. Check knock sensor wiring. it's common that they go bad. Apart from that i'm with...

As long as you use the narrowband simulation (i believe the uego has one) you'll probably be fine...