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you can connect the electric fans to the stock electric fan connectors. When you do they will come on as per spec of the airco temp sensor. aim for at least 2500cfm. The flexalites are pretty and functional. You can source some fans yourself from used cars but since you're replacing the fans...

Also don't take tests or measurements of the afm for granted. even if they appear to be in spec as per tsrm it still can be faulty (although there is a much smaller probability when tests seem ok) so it's best to go swap it out for an AFM that is known to be working.

ok I didn't know that. thanks. Anyway the mk3 supra never got them as a stock part.

AFAIK MK3 supras never came with 550cc injectors. Also, I don't know of 'drop in' injectors for the 7M. All injectors need some kind of modification to make them fit the stock clips. (or you can replace the clips) Top feed injectors WILL fit your fuel rail however. 550cc Nippondenso injectors...

How many miles on the turbo and how much boost? (not the max boost you ever archieved, but the boost you run when you drive it 'daily' )

Sounds like you need to check for error codes first ;) Anyway I had thesame problem a few years back and it turned out to be a defective wiring harness. I replaced my engine harness and good to go. But you are still far from doing that. check everything else first ;-)

Follow the steps depicted in the TSRM and clear your codes by removing the EFI fuse.

You can put it on no problem. In return, the car will thank you by blowing the HG in your first or second high boost run. Better take the engine out, rebuild it (new bearings, resurface the block and head) and put the upgrades on. Better do it right the first time.

I have that too and am not bothered by it although ofcourse mine is modified in some way (lexriemer) and yours seem to be stockish. I'd point at the coilpack/wires/ first but hey that's just me.

stock HG? Might want to change that first.

i had that some time ago. turned out to be a coupler that wasn't tightned down enough and air passing the gap would cause a whistle. check your piping ;) edit: i didn't see that black91turbo said the same thing. sorry my bad.

That is correct however there is no sign that changing the afm helped in any way. Could he also rev to 2500 on the old afm? It's not clear that he tested that. Even more, if he didn't test that it's very possible that he swapped out a good afm for a bad one causing the 2500rpm cutoff. Who knows...

why would you fiddle with the afm if you don't know whether that is the problem or not? First set the TPS right. Then put the original AFM back in. your car still won't idle even with the other AFM so probably that is not your problem. My best guess is that you have a huge vacuum leak and that...

I just saw this thread and I got really curious about how much your car misses @ idle. Is it constantly or every 5 to 10 seconds ? This because my car does this too after upgrading to 550cc+lexus afm, and two other supras with a similar setup do also miss every 5 to 10 seconds @ idle so we...

A boost leak between the turbo and your throttle body can also cause similar symptoms. Even if your turbo is spinning and boosting like a madman, when you have a serious boost leak all your pressure will go out the door before reaching your TB. You will have no boost and run pig rich, which...

before doing that, it's worht trying to disconnect the plug from the ICSV while the car is running good at cold idle. If the car keeps idling just fine when it gets warm it's your icsv. If it still stalls it's probably something else. Did you check for codes yet ?

Leaking manifold gasket? Did you check for that yet? Although in combination with overheating @ idle i'd think your cilinderhead is fubarred. Did you get it pressure tested before putting it back on?

i tried to explain that in a post on the first page. I really think this is the case. if not people, please correct me. hope it makes sense...

Hmm I didn't read through the whole thread so maybe this is not applying to you but here goes: You cannot ajust the closed loop afr's with the s-afc. First get it idling around 14.7 by setting the fuel pressure before you ajust the s-afc. Check whether the ecu has trouble ajusting the AFR's by...

check your timing. :)