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Thaks man, and does one go on eah side? or just on the bottom?

Yea snap rings were all switc to the new spindle, then placed on the motor, before the pressure plate and clutch disk.

OK just a little update today, all we got done today was PUT THE MOTOR IN!!!! :) .....anyways, got a few pictures taken, there's also a long list of loose ends to tie up. But they are on a white board, soon to be marked off. So on to the pictures :)...

Yea my washer fluid reservoir has a leak so i'm thinking about removing it. I wash the car often so it probably wont matter. Then mount the canister there somewhere. Anyway, we got tubing cutters, and a flaring tool....and got a bunch of different fittings and we are going to work something...

But if im not running any EGR, is it required?

No sir, I did a total EGR delete on the motor.

Lol, he does that a lot.

Ok will do, high pressure lines all the way.

This will clears up that last picture. ---------- Post added at 03:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ---------- Ok so if its the main pressure line, do I need to re-run the entire line?

Ok so here is the problem, when the motor was removed the solid sending fuel like looks to me cut with a set of bolt cutters, so now its my problem. Its cut up far enough to where I cant reuse the stock line, does any one have an idea on what I can do here? I was told by auto-zone to just cut...

Well I know where my next few pay checks will be going.

OK Quick update with lots of pictures. We got the trans bolted up last night, after finally figuring out the pilot bearing needed to be seated inside the seat on the flywheel, not just placed on there. I also purchased $100 in fluids today, minus the diff fluid. So good times ehh. Plans are to...

I'm planning on getting the motor broken in with a entirely stock setup. Later down the road i will be getting larger injectors, a bigger turbo, FFIM /FFIC, also a MAF delete. So plans a being set in place but for now its being set to as stock as possible with upgrades down the road.

Lol I want to do a thread specifically for r154....I feel like that would help a lot of people. Cause I didn't find anything on how to do it, and I just figured it out.

No this cover came with the motor, (thanks again CheesePhantom) it is nearly flawless minus that stress crack, but i'm thinking I can fix it fix a new grommet, like u suggested, and my buddy's PVC welder. But its not important right now, I don't mind leaving it off and showing off my valve...

Lol answer ur dam phone and ur invited, I need help getting this clutch installed then the thing will go in.

No it wasnt needed, I used acetone to get the slight build up of paint out of the tunnel, its in now, and sitting flush. Ill probably have to readjust when I get it first started...but for now, its on and im happy.

ok will do thanks.

True that, I had this issue kind of, when removing the trans from my NA, come to find out the entire thing slides out with the pressure plate and everything on the impute shaft on the trans. It sat for about 2 weeks before I just manned up and tried pulling it off. Then bam, it cam apart lol.

OK long story short, the entire body of the CPS will not slip into the tunnel it is suppose to. On the exhaust cam, the gears of both the cam and cps are together. The issue is there's about a half a inch of space between the head and plate the cps is on. I have some pictures of it ill post in a...