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Am I incorrect then, that when current flows from the ignition switch, through the windings in the coil, then to ground, it builds a strong magnetic field inside the coil. I thought the primary circuit was switched by the ignitor (in place of points), but the curent generated in the coil came...

My Bad. Toyota did include it for no reason then. I guess we can get rid of all ground straps, as the wiring harness has several grounds already in it. That should make it lighter and faster. Seriously?:icon_surp Are you sure your insulators were good and truly isolating the coilpacks from...

What head bolts/studs are you using? Do they go all the way down in all block holes smoothly? To the same depth? Any chance contamination from inside the bolt holes soiled the surface as it was being tightened (goo in the bolt holes forced out by the bolts as they were installed)?

Toyota OEM HG. More metal showing on top of all passages. Top Bottom

"^ Well, you're half right... " So which half is right. Isolated from ground? No ground-no spark, or what? I thought Toyota put that strap there for a reason, not just to pad the parts list...correct me if I'm wrong.

Replace that ground strap. The coil packs are completely insulated from the cam covers by rubber isolator bushings. That ground strap is their primary ground. Without it, no spark....

Have you checked all wiring from CPS, TPS, Coil packs, Ignitor, etc.? No cracks at all in any insulation? Have you read the TSRM troubleshooting section? This is the CPS plug. Any wires that look like this need to be repaired/replaced. This caused my engine to turn over without spark...

Welsh plug. LOL! Isn't that what they call a sheep shagger from Wales?:biglaugh:

Idle ok? Steady and smooth? I've popped off the vacuum line going to the PS pump, had spiking afr's, boost pop & drop, and surging idle was the clue. What AFM are you using? OEM, MAFT, other?

Maybe i should have titled this thread "What's a Welch Plug??" Or maybe "Blown Welch Plugs Suck!" Oh well... A little history lesson on core plugs: "Freeze" (core) plugs and "welch" plugs are two different animals doing basically the same job. One is weaker by design, and meant to be...

Yep, Jeff, Toyota parts are the only way to go if you do have to replace them, for sure. My guage never moved. Once the sensor lost contact with the coolant, the sensor had nothing to measure. So it stayed right at the same, safe, normal mark just below the halfway point on the gauge. And...

No block work, it stayed in the car. I just pulled the head, cleaned everything, replaced valve guide seals (they were in the gasket kit), and torqued down with new ARP's on a Titan MHG. The car had 138,xxx miles when we did it. At 185k, we pulled the head again to repair exhaust studs, and did...

In case you were wondering, so what happens if the front core plug falls out? Well, the coolant will drain directly into the oil pan. The oil pump will switch to a coolant/oil intermix pump, and send coolant everywhere oil should be. This makes bearings and pistons very unhappy. The...

I ran 5 years at 14 psi daily driver, 50k miles on a TMS MHG w/ARP bolts. Even though I didn't grind off the notorius "rivet of death", I managed to keep it all together until the crank pulley keyway ate itself up. So long as it is flat, extremely clean, and properly torqued, all should be well...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you can't change oil too often. There is no downside except cost. I prefer to change the oil for the first time after a few heat cycles, prior to driving the car, to remove any contamination from assembly lubes, gaskets, sealers, etc.. Then drive...

First off, the stock "freeze" plugs should last the entire life of the motor, through several rebuilds, if the cooling system is properly maintained, and should not be tampered with unless leaking or damaged. They are high quality steel core plugs from the factory, and steel should be used...

You really have three choices... Install a catch can, or leave it like it is and quit looking in your pipes, or run the engine without oil. I would only recommend one of the first two options. The 7M PCV system is supposed to return oil vapors from the cam covers back into the engine...

I was told I have picked up two of the last short blocks left, with only one remaining in the U.S. The oil pump drive shaft is no longer available. All other internal engine parts have been available so far.

Would the bbk require certification? If so, both cost the same to certify, or the brakes would be cheaper if certification is not required, correct? In any event, we are running about 330rwhp, and need bigger brakes. MKIII brakes are barely adequate at stock power levels. We recently...

Thanks for all the comments! And my apologies to all that I have forgotten to thank personally over the last ten or so years. And even though it's a show winner, it also goes like it shows. In a back-to-back, two-event SCCA autocross meet the following day, she took second to a 2009 GT-R in...