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did you know that knocking is a normal part of everyday engine operation? and did you also know that the 7M's ecu is CONSTANTLY pulling, and adding timing depending on how much knock the sensors detect? so what happens when you mess that system up? ill leave the rest for you to figure out.

i see a good money making product here actually... and, all the customer would have to do is tell what the make and model of his car is and you adjust the high and low values accordingly, design the overlay or whatever for the speedo and thats basically it.

highly doubt it. battery terminals can SEEM tight enough, and when you loose power can even still be connected to the post, but the whole thing will still trip out. double check your battery terminal connections.

dremel it into a flat head screw like bishop said, or try an easy out.

it isnt that bad, especially if you have a shop with a lift to work at. at home in the back yard with floor jacks, itd probably be easier to just pull the motor.

if you have the know-how (:icon_bigg ) it would be easier to design it your self. i can think of a few cost effective ways to implement this.

no. youll get better oil pressure with the NA piece actually.

most likely your AFM is bad and needs to be replaced. do this: while the car is idling, unplug the AFM. it should idle very well with the AFM unplugged if its causing the problem.

so then your AFM may be going bad. how does the car idle?

bad advice anyone?

well, ive always been one to reinvent the wheel.

the air flow meter connecter. its by the intake filter connected to the hose going to the inlet of the turbo, commonly called the accordian hose.

well, IMO we have TWO opportunities to use the KISS guidline: 1. keep it simple for developers OR 2. keep it simple for customers/installers which one do you think is going to make the product more successful in the long run? ease of install is a biggg factor that you cant deny! :)

instead of saying "BZZZT WRONG" (paraphrased :)), what you should have said was, " i think this method would be better..." and for the record, i think my method is better :). instead of having to mount/install 6 sensors, you can have software do all that by means of simple calculations. youre...

like i said earlier, youd also have to determine when the car is in "neutral" or the clutch is in. trivial however. the method i described would work. like i also said earlier, doing it that way keeps you from having to install extra sensors in the car. take two wires from the engine harness...

not really needed if you pull the engine alone, and you also dont need it for pulling the engine with the tranny. when installing the engine with the tranny a load leveler is great. other wise, you have to lift the motor+tranny at a crazy angle when installing it back into the car.

maybe they are casting holes? you could measure them if you really want to take them out. if i were you id leave them in.

yeah but 45 in fifth is at X RPMs and 45 in fourth is at Y RPMs. like i said before, you have to moniter speed and rpms.

a correlation between engine RPM and vehicle speed. these two variables can only correspond to one gear in a given "window" of values per gear. neutral would be a little different and would have to check a few different conditions. maybe there is an easier way? but this is the only way i can...

well im never trying to offend anyone, so thats good that you werent. :)