The biggest thing is machine work. Don't just throw it all back together. Make sure all of your clearances are spot on. Bore with timing belt tensioner torqued, use a torque plate, deck with lower timing cover.. that's all I can think of for now. Find a reputable machine shop.
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Don't buy a mhg unless you plan on machining the block and head.. and at this point, maybe you should consider a full rebuild.
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The door and rear fenders bother me the most. Especially where the bumper attaches. It just looks so wrong and out of place.. Ugh. And the gap between the bumper and tail lights..
Keep the trim!!!!!!!!!
You like the model. You don't have to have an attachment to that specific car. You can always get another just like it to replace it. Unless you have a specific reason why you like THAT one.
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Honestly, having been through rust repair (not even close to that bad of rust either), I would just reshell, unless you have some sort of attachment to the car. I repaired mine because it was my first car and I didn't want to get rid of it. And even then, I still almost sold it about half way...
Either you're a really good driver, or they're really terrible. Or a combo of both. Fwiw, if the race was a little longer, the SRT-4 would have passed you.
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I was referring to RazoE. He's running N/A electronics (Hence the distributor and flapper style AFM) on a N/A 2JZ. And if you ran 440's off of a GTE, you'd be pig rich on stock GE electronics. ;)
Chances are you'll go over 1000. I got lucky. Also didn't get a valve job, and assembled the engine myself.
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