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Well, I'm fairly certain I have a genuine TRD shift knob now. Thanks! haha It came with the shell, and I never really knew if it was genuine or not, but it looks identical to the genuine one in the pictures.

All I did was take the oem tank and heated up where it hit the IC and pushed it in a little bit. After that, I drilled another hole in the bracket so it would sit a little bit higher and cut the top off.

Unplug the tps. The car will run fine without it. Although, I doubt its your problem. Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

The base of the windshield is a high pressure area. It won't do anything at speed. At low speeds it may do some, but a factory cooling system in good shape with air blockers in place will do just fine. Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

That won't do anything for cooling at speed. It might actually increase temps. Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

So just make a little jumper harness including really low amp fuses on the triggers.. Whichever one blows is the one that's tripping the alarm?

The only problem is I don't want to be sitting outside with a multimeter waiting for the alarm to trip for hours on end. Is that the only way?

I disabled my CSI, as it was just open all the time, causing it to run pig rich once it started warming up. It starts a little harder, but nothing like what you're saying.

Is there anyway to figure out what sensor is tripping the alarm? Like check codes in the alarm ECU or something along those lines. I have a bad switch/wire somewhere causing my alarm to randomly go off throughout the day. I threw my spare theft computer on just to check, and sure enough...

I bolted it up from the back of the horn mount, like so. Ran a bolt through the cooler into where the horn mounts. A bolt long enough so you still have enough threads to put the horn over and put a nut on the front side. Looks factory.

I'm using my factory oil cooler as a power steering cooler (N/A-GTE swap), and I have it mounted to where the drivers side horn mounts. This is with the driftmotion FMIC

Atleast I'm not the only one that wants to see how well the supra will pull something lol

Spend a couple bucks and get a new one. You don't want it coming loose and fucking over your crank... Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

I've heard some horror stories around the Fidanza.. From what I remember, the PP bolts did not have enough material around them and the flywheel ended up failing around the PP bolts.

If the crank is fine, just buy a new key. They're cheap anyway.. Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

In theory, if your TPS is set properly, a vented BOV should do absolutely nothing in regards to stalling. In theory, this is what would happen... Boosting, half throttle or so, TPS IDL contacts are open. Engine speed has to be above 2000 RPM IIRC Let off throttle, TPS IDL contacts close, since...

Lol... I remember when I was baffled at how low my compression was... I only tested one cause I was bored.. But it was 135. I had the throttle closed lol

No one?

Put my driftmotion replacement downpipe in yesterday, and holy hell that makes a difference! No pictures or videos though. It's obnoxiously loud, and I really really need to put the exhaust back on. But I am going to figure out a way to put on the door moldings soon, and I am thinking I'm...

That's impressive that you got a 275 all the way around Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2