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I became unlazy enough today to pull my gauge cluster and swap my factory boost gauge for a volt-meter since yesterday I installed my -30 to +30 mechanical boost/vac gauge. It was easy enough. Poor Supra. :( The one closest is my original 91T cluster, and the other is a 90 N/A cluster...

How long have you been having this problem? Your detents may be damaged or non-existant, and/or this could be caused by damaged synchros. To my knowledge, low fluid has nothing to do with it. Shifter bushings may, if it's not actually going in to gear. Collin

The 1JZ would have to accomplish it without the benifit of the higher deck height of the 2JZ. You'd have a less desirable rod:stroke ratio and lose a little high rpm ability. Since the displacement can't be added through boring the block alone, you'd have to stroke the crank and shorten the...

I'll help beat him down. That's not even cool as a joke. :nono:

Why? lol Higher compression? EDIT: Seeing your edit: As I suspected, just a heavier duty engine... Makes sense to me. Collin

I think that right now I can beat you both. :D All I need is to put my acc. belt back on... Collin

Really, there's one benifit, and that is that the longer the rod the less side loading on the cylinder walls and piston and longer engine life under high load. Honda took a similar approach with their B16 engines. However, longer rods = more weight = less efficiency. Meh. Collin

Joe, that link makes me want to install rod-proof glass on my windows to protect myself from flying thrown rods. To think that I share the road with people like that terrifies me! Collin

LMAO! And the point of that would be? :biglaugh: Collin

I can agree with that 100%. And, personally, a 2JZ stroker bottom end with a 1JZ head is still a stroked 1.5JZ. And with a head like the one Chris Hamilton built, it would be a MONSTER! 1J crank in 2J block = REALLY low compression and useless engine. 2J crank in 1J block = lots of...

That's the most silly thing I have heard in quite some time... That's almost as bad as comparing a 1J to a 7M. They are NOT the same. To the next wise guy who wants to argue it, go put a 2JZ crank your 1JZ, and make a start-up vid for me. :D Collin

I agree with IJ in a sense that technically it's still 2JZ engine, but my originally claim still stands that it should not be lumped with the 1J's or 2J's but instead should be in its own class, as it has the benifits of the 3.0 2JZ bottom end while still having a 1JZ head. It's not a 1J or a...

A real stroked 1J, using a 1J block, an overbore, and a stroked crank, would be a COMPLETELY different engine than a 1.5JZ. There is no way to argue otherwise. Collin

I believe that it should be in its own class. It's not a stroker 1J because it's got the benifit of the taller deck height, and it's not a 2JZ because it's got a 1JZ head. /thread :p Collin

Correct. Even if when the 86.5's were released they had gotten complaints that it was too slow, it would have taken a lot longer than half a model year to engineer the 7M-GTE. There's a lot more going on between the two engines than bolting on a turbo. :icon_roll My 88 N/A 5spd with a...

Send me $300, your original MKIII harness, and your Aristo harness, and I'll do it. Well, not really... I would but I'm going back to school next week and I won't have the time to sit over a table and solder wires together for hours. :( And this advantage is? What's your setup? Collin

It is a completely different game when it's your only car. If I break something, it sucks, but I'm not out my transportation. My car won't be a drag car either. I'm more interested in a car that performs well in all aspects, and I intend to modify the suspension in ways that will get me...

Exactly! 400whp on pump (CA shit gas) should be a walk in the park for both of our setups. If I'm correct, though, that should only be barely stretching my turbo's legs. :D If your turbos are as efficient as they are supposed to be, there should be plenty left. Once we're both comfortably...

I've been looking around at used 700-800cc injectors, and there are a few going around for < $450, flow-tested with paperwork. Like-new used parts FTW! All I need is that and a fuel rail, and I can get the Aeromotive AFPR and SS AN plumbing from work. First thing is first, though. Get it...

Where'd you get your 540's? High or low impedence? Collin