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Closed loop is the norm as JJ says. The decision to go open loop is not as simple as just the throttle position. Its mainly based on load and rpm, the actual cutover depends on both, but for rpm < 3600 48% load is the threshold. As rpm goes up, the threshold drops to 0% load at 7600 rpm...

Electrolytic caps dry out after 20+ years and they stop working. I revived my amp by replacing them all, but if you don't have good soldering skills this will not be an option for you. You can also look at swapping in something from a newer Toyota if you want the factory look. The wiring is...

The block has been known to crack between the bolt holes and coolant/oil passages For the head, you should use a dye penetrant process like the one described here. Hopefully this is what TSP did for you when the head was off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npgoUHq3X4k

Then I would suspect a crack in the head, that only shows up under high cylinder stress.

275 miles would be ~3-4hour of driving, 99.99% of which would be with no boost I would guess. Are you saying that for the first ~3 hours all is well, no bubbles etc. and then it suddenly overheats after that? The stock temp gauge is designed not to move over normal operating conditions...

With the car hot, is the upper rad hose firm. If you squeeze it do you hear/see coolant movement in the overflow bottle?

Yes it should. With the AFM unplugged (code 31), the ECU uses only two signals for the fuel map, IDL and STA. So. as JJ said way back, you have more than one problem....

Listen to JJ, code 11 is not a CPS failure, that would be a 12 or 13. With the engine idling, I would start moving the harness around trying to see if you can find a section that cause the engine to stall when it is moved. For example, under acceleration your engine will torque over and put...

Voltmeter and a clean on a Karman-Vortex AFM. I see lots of Fail ahead.

Actually its humidity as much as cold that really matters. As the pressure drops past the ISCV it will cool (just like your A/C expansion valve) and any water in the air can freeze and clog up the ISCV. I laugh when the Floridians claim they don't need it, in reality they need it the most!

Its a bit more work to replace that seal than the o-ring. Hope you work fast if you have an event next weekend. :biglaugh: http://www.supramania.com/forums/content.php?130-CPS-Rebuild-%2856k-keep-playing-your-PS2%29

Those were a few important details left out of the original post. My guess is that the original event created a big transient that took out some of your electronic modules. You might try testing the integration relay #2 for a start.

The only kit I know of is here http://kbox.ca/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/47/products_id/252 but this is for rebuilding the mechanical parts. The connector is available too. The pickup coils I have not seen available. I would suggest buying a used one and merging it with what you have to...

What "short" did you find? I would start by checking the output of the alternator at various rpms.

Looks like one of the factory TRD ECUs used in the early 90s by various racing teams. Apparently Toyota did not allow any of the TTE teams access to the ECU code until after 92, according to LordDigital, who pointed this out to me a while back. Here's a similar looking Group A 7M ECU...

True, but that is where Toyota put the flex section too. Food for thought....

I haven't heard of it happening on the 7M, but on the 1JZ removing the fuel-dampener (which I see you have removed) causes this type of problem. The dampener de-Q's the fuel rail, without it it can resonate at certain frequencies resulting in large pressure variations along its length. Try...

Emissions decal under hood.

Is it a California spec car?

Stock pressure is 36psi for GTE (the GE is 41 psi ), and is set with FP to B+ with the engine off. T1-E1 is for checking codes? Have you ever measured Vf on the ECU during driving?