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Any additional load on the 5V bus would is risky. There seems to be about another 250mA or so of extra capacity, but it likely varies with ECU.

The ECU internal 5V power supply will 'crow-bar' if the load on the 5V supply is too large.

I believe that is your problem. With the CC computer missing, the black-yellow wire (color is for 1990 cars, yours may be different) that goes from the clutch sw to the NSW input on the ECU is floating when the clutch is out (it appears to be normally pulled to ground by the CC computer)...

Yeah, bummer, I noticed it was premixed, so about as expensive as Toyota long life concentrate. Neat violet color though!

Is g05 better than Zerex Asian Vehicle Antifreeze? http://www.amazon.com/Zerex-675130-Vehicle-Anitfreeze-Coolant/dp/B0033QO022/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1339828043&sr=8-4&keywords=toyota+long+life+coolant

Give some consideration to using Google sites for your non-commercial web site. Very easy to maintain, and google gadgets and google docs allows for some decent bells and whistles. You can also go this path for the commercial site, but if you are long term looking at integrating with a SQL...

On M/T cars, the cruise control clutch switch is connected to the ECU NSW input. I don't have a M/T, but this seems like it could be WAD.

You know, this site has a whole section on oil.... http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?108-Motor-Oil-Lubricants-amp-Filtration

You are calculating the difference between two temperatures, not the actual value. Let me give you a simple example, if there is no temperature difference measured, i.e. 0C, then what value would you expect it to be in Fahrenheit? Use you calculator and see what you get, then ask yourself if...

A delta of 5-10C = 9-18F. I won't comment on this country's science education....

If you are running hot at 75mph, no fan is going to help you.

Plenty of ideas in your first post.

Don't forget about Sethron's Sleeper Designs front kit.

I'll guarantee your cam bearings are perfect, but the journals are worn in the head. More here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?34673-Plastigaging-Cam-Journals&p=474041#post474041

Nickel can have oxidation issues. It might work with a good contact lube applied.

Do you have an AFR meter hooked up, or a exhaust gas analyzer handy? I would like to know the mixture when you experience the power drop out.

My comment was more targeted to Destrux. For you, I would pull out the regulator and check for damaged teeth and dried out 20+ year old lube.

The original plating is probably gone, resulting in corrosion. If you have access to a plating facility, a nickel/hard-gold plate would solve your problem.

You are correct, alternate grounds between Tc and Ab. I used a SPDT switch, with ground on the common and Ab and Tc on the two legs. Throwing the switch every second for 5 cycles clears code 41.

This would be a good path.... http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=12