Search results

You planning to setup an LLC? You need to figure in some cash for licenses, tax prep, utilities, insurance, and marketing.

Sounds like you need a honey badger!

Default is 80C

So your car is performing badly, has an error code that the temp sensor is bad, and ..... what was the question again?

A small vacuum leak will cause this problem. Idle quality will be bad too, but you may not notice it.

Well I think you just answered your own question. Here's a hint. What is the coolant temperature assumed by the ECU when the sensor is bad?

Also make sure the filters that Toyota put on the car are still there.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?104255-Thermostat-housing-sensors edit: beaten by Cy

In addition to the connection at the cluster, the other likely culprit is the short pigtail and connector from the harness to the sender in the engine bay. Subject to a lot of heat and vibration over many years can cause it to fail.

The hardware is ready. We are working on the software to tune and log the factory code. The PC code is open-source. The ECU-side code is proprietary. I've had a prototype in my car, daily driven, for 10 trouble-free months now.

Put a line filter on the 12V feeds to the equipment. This is not a ground loop, its alternator rectifier noise getting in to your equipment.

Yes, the idle air control valve. Sorry for the confusion. If its not working, it will stay in whatever position it was last commanded too, which can be anything in its range of operation.

When you turn off the engine, do you hear the ISC valve retracting (should make a ticking noise for a few seconds)? With the engine off, is the ISCV fully retracted (open)?

If you lived in Socal in the 90s or earlier you might understand why emission testing is important.

Bypass valve will not affect idle speed. Pinch or otherwise block the ISC air hose and it should stall. If it doesn't, suspect pirate air or a leaky throttle plate.

The online TEWD should help you isolate the loads http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=032 some possibilities are the tail light failure indicator circuit, check engine light circuit, the airbag circuit, the seatbelt warning circuit, ABS lamp. All of those are...

Read this thread carefully, especially post #14. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?144375-Seems-simple-enough-but-its-giving-me-a-hard-time-%28No-brake-pressure%29

That would be a worst case scenario. There is a lot of metal around the caliper cylinder, so the corrosion would have to be very deep to rupture. Still, calipers thermal cycle a lot, and cracks can form with the pits you have. For $30 get a rebuilt caliper and some piece of mind.