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The most likely culprit is a protection diode that is shorted (D105 on a 7MGE board), but may be some other designation on other models. Its the first diode to ground if you trace the IGSW circuit. Other components could also cause trouble, like the MREL protection diode, but you will have to...

The missing connector is for the boost gauge. Me thinks No light -> no ECU power.

Reman calipers are cheap. I wouldn't use those, they look deeply pitted. A couple of thousand psi on a hard stop and those things could blow apart...

Yup, small by today's standards. I think the size is dictated by what can fit in the stock location. It is thicker though, and the data I have seen shows much less pressure drop than the stock IC.

That is it. You can get them for $16 on ebay with shipping included. You will need some hose as well.

I've got one too. Old school, but bolts right up without the bailing wire and duct tape of the ebay ICs.

Congrats. The vacuum plumbing on that thing is hilarious.

Nice progress. That looks like the old Cartech intercooler. Is it new? (AMS = Alamo Motorsports?)

Yup that makes sense. I had thought the ECU could be grounding the coil through Y/L, but then the ignitor would be not doing anything which made no sense. I assume you tossed the aftermarket ignitor?

That is beautiful. Congrats. Unless I'm missing something, the schematic file shows two terminals on the igniter, and they are in parallel with the coil. I am assuming B/W is 12V. Does the igniter have a third terminal? It would makes sense if it had a third terminal that is ground.

Pretty hard to figure this out with that wiring schematic. Your plan with the Y/L wire seems reasonable, but I don't really understand why the igniter is in parallel with the coil. Usually the igniter drives the coil.

Weezl once fabbed his own.... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?27913-Lucy-Im-home!&p=386466&viewfull=1#post386466

Water temp switch, I wonder what that does? Maybe its stuck in warmup enrichment. I'd pop the top off the ECU and see if it has any leaking electrolytic capacitors. I'm not a big fan of part swapping, but without any troubleshooting manual you might just try finding a used ECU in a junk yard...

Its crude all right. I planned to redo it a long time ago but I need a molded U shaped hose to make it work, and never found the time to source one. Without those relays ( I have the A/C pusher fan) it would be a lot easier.

Agreed, if I had known I would have put one on long ago. I still need to look at redoing my install. I found it hard to fit under the AFM, but I don't like the current installed position I have at all. I wish there was some sort of mount for the magnefine to stop it flopping around.

On my screen the crud would not come off with a Q-tip. Someone on here recommended soaking it in Coke, but I used Mopar combustion chamber cleaner.

Yup, time to look at the signals at the ECU.

I was more asking than saying. I don't know this system at all, and don't have a schematic, so I'm just trying to put it together in my head. So energizing the coil causes a lean condition. Then , I change my summary as follows... Low dwell (20 deg) is a rich command and the solenoid is off...

To summarize.... You posted low dwell (20 deg) is a rich command and the solenoid is energized to add fuel. That implies the solenoid is energized when 12V is applied to the solenoid. The other end of the solenoid coil is therefore grounded it would seem and the ECU sources the current to...

ECU Speed sensor is in the dash connected to the speedo cable (pink wire). The rear ABS speed sensor is the only one in the tranny. Having dug through the ECU code, I can tell you that having the NSW permanently jumpered on will results in non-optimal ECU operation.