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You sure it's not working as designed? (Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi).

You checked the timing with TE1 grounded? You checked the ISCV is not stuck open (you hear it click after shutdown)? If above are good, you checked the TPS? Unplug it and see if lope is impacted. Not to mention that the idle speed is controlled by the ECU, so the ISCV would be adjusted to...

12mm is the nipple diameter. 3/8 seems like it would be a tight fit.

What is the rpm range when the idle is bouncing, max and min?

Just going by the book on this one! :icon_bigg This thread was not meant to be serious, I just was glad to get things cleaned up. Its been said before by others... the no. 3 cover was not a high point in Toyota's engineering achievements.

Seems to block an enormous amount of crud, at least based on the old one I took out!

:icon_bigg

Yes, that is it. It was a long shot, but you can get weird resonances without the dampener in place. You can get issues if the AFM intake is not bolted to a properly sized air filter adapter providing laminar air flow into the mouth of the AFM, and make sure the intake is away from any...

Actually the knock sensor MCU returns none, mild, medium or heavy knock. The ECU responds accordingly. That said, with a code 52 present the ECU will retard timing a maximum of 15 degrees from nominal, and in reality the maximum value is pulled form a table which is for most conditions less...

My feeling is that we have to scale the AFM input, and then fixup the tables. I don't see any other solution. For air flow beyond a single 1UZ meter, the solution is probably the MAF translator (not the 'pro' version) hooked to a GM 3" or 3.5" hot-wire MAF.

Not true. Set the DVM on Hz, and with everything plugged in get your meter probes on E2 and Ks. Back probing the connectors at the ECU is probably your best bet. At idle, should be 20 to 30 Hz, and under load can go much higher (3 kHz or so). If it were my car, I'd be thinking very hard...

I've been delaying responding to this, because it really needs to have a thorough description of the fuel calculations to make any sense. As it stands, the factory program converts the AFM frequency signal to a load value, after factoring in the HAC input. The load is a 16 bit number that...

You already told us long ago it didn't run properly with the AFM disconnected. That was my point. Even if the AFM is fixed you still have problems elsewhere. This reason its on post 89 is because the OP has weak trouble shooting skills!

It was stated long ago, but with the AFM unplugged the car will drive with a code 31. It will hit fuel cut at 3000rpm. It will not accept much throttle, but it is completely drivable. If you cannot get it to run like that with the AFM disconnected, then clearly you have other problems.

That hose often fails when the factory heat shields are removed or broken, especially the little L-shaped metal tab between the ex manifold and the hose.

Earl's tubing beader, works pretty well on aluminum. That's an excellent price. The best I found is $15 each.

Finally got around to bending some tubing so that I could fit the magnefine under the AFM. Need to source some better clamps though.

Is it coming back in vogue? http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/16321727+w750+st0/mump_0403_14_z+2005_ford_mustang_gt+red_interior.jpg

Poodles: never thought about it, but your right, the fading is uneven. 7nut: They were from the leatherseats.com group buy a while back. I ordered the premium leather package with perforations. They were also installed by a local shop, which helps with fitment.

Tan came with brown trim. As shown, the seat covers are not stock. Stock was all tan.