Search results

In order to reset the air bag light I made a little gizmo to switch between 12V and ground with a switch. If you read the TSRM, you will understand what I am talking about.

Its been a while, but I recall the bolt and washer cover the holes, so checking isn't so easy. If you have spark and injection then your ecu has power and your CPS is functioning. I would stop focusing on the ECU and look elsewhere.

I never understood the need to coat each piece. The new gasket only has Viton on the top and bottom ?

Devil's advocate. The stock routing is good for at least 20 years using pvc wire. If you are concerned that another 20 years will not be enough, then use a teflon based wire for the part that goes over to the hot side of the engine. Since you cannot do anything about the connector locations...

yes

The factory theft system ONLY disables the starter.

A fuel pressure dampener should quell the pulsing. As each injector turns off, it basically creates a"water hammer" effect same as you get when a washing machine turns off. All these pulses can add up to make some nasty resonances at certain rpms. For the pressure variations, I would start by...

You can see it in the top small picture. Better than nothing I suppose....

My replacements lasted 4 years. No where near the quality of the original Toyota ones. Shall see how long the third set lasts.

Grimjack sold a brand new one a while back. No idea where he got it from. I used high-temp split sleeve.

I'm confused, as usual... never mind this post.

I assumed the 7V was measured during cranking on pin 12 of B1. Is that correct? Yes, it all comes from AM1, except for the ignition circuit which is AM2. You will also want to measure the voltage drop across pins 2 and 4 of the starter relay in the pass kick panel. Should also be <1 V...

Put your voltmeter across terminals 1 and 4 of the IGN switch and measure the voltage during cranking. Should be <1 V if all is well with the switch.

52 is a failure of the knock system, resulting in the maximum ignition retard of up to 15 degrees being applied all the time, which will hurt performance but it will still run just fine. 52 does not mean knock is detected. In normal operation the system is always listening for knock and...

Does your manual gearbox have the tailshaft speed sensor? In any case, even with the light on, the modulator should not behave badly and is designed to fail safe. Sounds to me like the internal valving may be gummed up. See if you can get any codes first though...

I would suspect the ABS modulator. You see any activity with the ABS light? You can check for ABS codes, but I doubt you will find any if the abs light is not on.

Did you read what I wrote? ::stickpoke

...or you could use a voltmeter and actually do some troubleshooting... nahh, replace everything.

FP is directly connected to the pump, no relays or anything in its path, including the COR and the pump speed relays. If you connect B+ to FP the pump better run or you have a defective wire to the pump, or a bad pump. The 12V mod should not have any impact on that test.

If TE1 is grounded, and the throttle is closed (based on IDL signal from TPS) and the car is not moving (speed=0) then timing will be set to 10 deg BTDC. Measure it with your timing gun, even though the idle is fast and lumpy it should hold at 10 BTDC if the above conditions are true. The ISCV...