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Anytime. Glad to help. :)

You're welcome. The shims are not a problem, really. I'm not sure how they are blamed. Unless it is difficult to take measurements, the instructions aren't too bad. Tiltons use shims, too. Clutch Master does make a spacer to get rid of most of the shims if you like.

I would just get a CM850. I don't use Spec, and don't support them in any way.

If you surpassed the single clutches ability to hold the power you are making, you are now headed into the territory of sheering 3rd gear off clean. (around 700ft. lbs, from other users experiences.) PGS transmissions are not for drag cars only, they can be used in street cars too. I was sick...

What power level are you at? Mind sharing your mods? Racing with an auto is very easy, and would be a lot of fun. The problem with full Marlin Crawler builds, they still use factory gears. Plus, you are still using synchros.

The Tilton is $8,000 (as of last week). That was what they quoted me, as they needed to make a JZ R-154 flywheel... So I guess subtract that amount IF they make a flywheel for the 7M. There are no other carbon clutches offered, that I know of. I am putting in a CM850 dual disc, street/race...

While I am not completely familiar with AEM, there may be a way to slightly retard the injector phasing (I think that's what it's called) to improve idle. I have also read, some older firmware can cause a miss at different RPMs.

Fstoy (RIP) sold me his magnetic trigger CPS 7M wheel, modified to accept a similar sensor. It has been in storage for years... I don't think I have a pic, but I will look when I get to my computer. He used it on his Haltech EK6 ecu. Could give you ideas, make it more simple.

Badass Corolla!

The higher past 3.0, the faster more heat will build up in the coils. 3.5 would be what I recommend to be the limit. You should try to get away with it under 3.1. This comes from testing with 1ZZ coils vs. LQ9 data off a thread on Supraforums, and personal JZ experience.

Two stepping goodness. First time I have seen this happen.

If you go this route, I recommend using a different clutch than a R-154. Or offer more than one option. The CM850 dual is one of heck of a clutch, but if you stick with the R-154 style clutch, the next best is a $8k Tilton (I asked). A slip valve is highly recommended with any ceramic disc...

Nice. I heard the infinity interface was great compared to V2/V1. I ran a Stinger 4424 for years. I have a Pro-efi 128 going on the car this time around, and it's only because of the failsafes. It's insurance, as I am building my 1JZ block this time. I am getting too old to be changing...

What turbo are you going with?

Have you had any success eliminating the hiccups?

I wonder if the heads are softer than JZ, as well as other castings. I think Quake on Supraforums mentioned the 7M heads need clamping help on the exhaust side. That is very coincidental and correlates with his suggestions to fix it.

Compression good?

Yes, idle to redline. You can set it lower at idle, and ramp it up near your max RPM. If you experience more break up up top, lower the plug gaps until it gets happy. This is assuming the coils are strong enough. I am not that familiar with 2JGE coil output.

I don't use AEM, and am not familiar with their software. I've always had it locked in with the Stinger 4424 I had on the car, before Pro-efi. I would not go beyond 3.5ms with pretty much any Toyota coil. 1zz coils and similar, I would not go past 3.0.

Try the dwell at 3.5ms ;) 3.0 is as low as I would go. It's a good range to make sure all things are happy, especially since you are wasted spark.