Check the crank sensor, and cam sensor wiring.
I spent $700+ on a harness from a reputable shop in Georgia. TPS wires were backwards, and some leads were not even installed on the harness. One look at a schematic, and I realized things were wrong.
Do wiring yourself, or let someone you trust...
Rev limits for me.
I went 8K on the 2J block.
8750rpms on the 1J block.
Full boost is still around 5K rpms with spool valve, and I'm never below 25-26PSI. To be like my hero Jay, my Stinger also fuel cuts at 29PSI.
BOV on or near the turbo is the best place for it. It makes no sense to me, even from a physics point of view, to put a BOV as far away from the source of pressure as possible.
I feel like this is a trick question. ;)
When I was 7M, I never felt like I would want to built it again, yet going JZ felt like sin. On my second of two JZ blocks, I sold my built JZ motor because there was no need, as stock JZ's hold the power fantastically. One could have thrown more money...
Some of the ATI's are machined really small, so heat up the gear before putting it over the crank.
Since everyone has a preference, I am rockin' the Fluidampr.
Just use a stock 1JZ or 2JGTE head gasket and keep the GE pistons.
A 2mm head gasket lowers the compression into the lower 8's. Any GTE head gasket brings it to 9:1 or so.
Keep it cold enough? It's not a problem with the BL kit. I doubt it would be a problem for anybody on pump or E85 levels of boost on most any motor.
Besides, there are titanium wheels and water injection ;)
So there's no benefit? I thought you could put two spool valves on it, too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-Me6yWApzY&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQu_F5NfVaM&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtmkNtyawu8&feature=related...
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