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is your GT35r a T4? or T3? no they are NOT identical sizes. The whole T3/T4 reference is soo stupid.

do you think it would have to do with the SAFC being wired into the knock sensor at the ECU?

ok, i was wondering if it had to do with fuel cut. Anyway when i start the car the check engine light doesnt come on instantly, its like i have to hit a certian speed before it kicks on and stays on. Also when i pull the fuse to reset everything the check engine light still comes right back on.

Alot of supra owners remove them. it helps clean up the engine bay some. I still have mine on cause i do alot of interstate driving. As far as i know its fine to remove it as long as you dont want to use it.

So my check engine light is on. Its throwing 3 codes. I checked the TSRM. Code 31 which is the AFM signal. Code 34 which is abnormal turbo pressure. and code 52 which is something wrong with the knock sensor wiring. The car is running good so im not totaly sure what the issues are with codes...

Ebay sells spacers, i just bought two 1/2in. spacers for my ebay manifold and 67mm billet turbo.

Definitly sounds like a major problem if your losing that much oil. If all that oil was going into the cylinders your car would be smoking a CRAP ton, and would run like crap.. as you stated it did. Or its going into the coolant. Pop your rad. cap and just take a quick look and see if its oily...

OK.. for the update.. me and MKiiSupraMan18 (Matt) got the ACT Clutch and Tranny back on the car. Car seems to be running great right now. So far i have about 100 miles on it from the trip back home. Still letting the clutch get broken in. The more i let the clutch break in the better MORE and...

OR a messed up PCV system??

i still think SupraDud3 may have an issue with the turbo.. im not convienced its coolant thats burning.. when my old turbo went bad the smoke was really white in color as well. but was deffinitly oil burning.

its possible that they have backed out enough to where you'll have coolant/oil getting into the cylinders, giving you the BHG symptoms..If thats the case maybe you can save it in time before it causes to much damage.. I dont know. Do a compression test first.

your studs may need retorqued then. your suppose to do that after about the first 500 miles of breaking it in.

did you retorque the head studs after about 500 miles? burping the system would really have nothing to do with it smoking alot. but to burp the coolant system, you jack the front end up as high as you can, take the radiator cap off, start the car and let it idle while the front is jacked up...

sounds like the head gasket went out or the head is warped.. does the car over heat any when driving? have you checked your coolant level in the radiator after driving it? check under your oil cap, see if there is any milky white gunk under it. then agian it may not be the motor.. could be the...

omg.. i cant stop laughing from reading this. if you dont mind i'd like to try a bite!

stupid question,, but is the afm pluged in? the car will run very rich, choke and die out if its not pluged in.

ya its basicaly a 2600 series not the 3200.. so i should be good. And yes i see the damage now..lol i hope i dont run into any problems like that.. im so tired of crap breaking on this car.

Yes i ordered the 6 puck sprung kit. how long have you been driving on it? ACT Xtreme ‘XT’ Clutch Kits (previously known as the 2600 series) include an ‘XT’ Pressure Plate 'XT’ Pressure Plate Great for Street and Track Performance 50% to 120% Clamp...

so why would they design a clutch like that then?

maybe im bling but im not seeing whats wrong in that picture? and yes the clutch has already been shipped