Nothing hydraulic in the head. It's a bucket and shim over the spring.
The tick is from loose valve lash clearances.
But if it got worse from running if make sure the cam caps are tight.
I would never follow one to the tee anyways. Because stuff changes mid year sometimes and when people make one its based off a harness in front of them.
I did a soarer harness and was looking at the sticky and it had a number of wire diffeerences.
WHat are you looking for?
the wiring diagrams are all on google.
the error codes are same same as any toyota obd1 car.
torque specs for motor are same as 2jz.
I enever found one a few years ago.
You dont need one tho.
Just look at the connector for the wire you need. See what color it is. Find the same color at the body connectors and use an ohm meter to verify that its the same wire.
Diag mode changes the timing to fixed instead of using a table and constantly changing to variables.
It's so you can set the base timing correctly so it's adjustments under normal operation are accurate.
Without setting makes the all of the Ecu calculations off.
NIce write up.
tho for the outer bearing races they should* easily hammer out with a small ball peen and a punch. the little slots on the back side are for that purpose. same goers for any front rotors that have a tappered roller bearings like that. such as fords and chevys.
and then the...
Shouldnt be a problem as long as nothing was clogged. And even if it was your dipstick would have popped out or your mains would have blown out which would have been a massive oil leak for the mains.
7m heads go for free to a few hundred. depends on condition.
bare as in no valve or anything that sounds expensive as stock valves and springs arent even really worth anything.
and if it didnt come with caps its trash.
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