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did you take the head light motors off during the swap at all?

My bet is on the e fans as well. switch back to a clutch fan. 2jzge clutch and blade works nice.

You dont sand heads or blocks..

turbo companies do not give warrenty if silicone is used. Its can block oil feeds, drains, and internally.

When is starts cold turn it off. Heat up the crank sensor with a heat gun and then see if it starts. Careful not to melt the sensor tho.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories.html Not so expensive stuff.

Could also look at headlight sealer to seal them back together. And ya I wouldn't use a solvent either.

Exactly. So if you did the math you would see that they were all machined .22.

I don't because if you look what your stock sizes are and subtract .25mm you should be close to the diameter of what yours are if they have been machined .25. I don't have a magic book that tells what every engine should be at. Machine shops usually have a book but you shouldn't be machining...

The stock size how your crank came from the factory is marked on the crank. If you read the manual that I posted you will see how the toyota select bearing system is. The crank journals are NOT all machined to the same size from the factory.

Doubt it's that big of a different. But you should be able to find a used 7m one on here for pretty cheap.

No. It's just the next size in bearings. It's like that for every motor. Std 10 20. Can't make the next size too small as your already talking about a small amount. Your over thinking it a bit it seems like.

Sounds like bhg.

.010in is the next size in bearings. in the manual it is mm. which would be the .25mm refference.

Dont think you will find one. and generally everyone uses a bov. wouldnt cost much to just cut it off and have someone weld it shut.

They give the clearance specs for 25 over but not the journal specs. because most machine shop when you tell them take 25 off there just going to take 25 of each one. but since toyota uses there select fit bearing system not all the journals are the same size so you end up with different...

Could also be radiator cap. but generally its usually because of bhg. block test would confirm.

Driftmotion and pheonixtuning both carry all the plugs. Milspecwiring has tefzel wire. Or you can get what ever txl or gxl wire youd want to use.

Can try and find one with longer threads. If all it's doing is spinning sounds like block is cracked tho.

Why not just put a aftermarket boost gauge in. Will be faster and more accurate.