IMO installation will require removal of the turbo. It's going to be hard to reach that area with the turbo installed not to mention the risk of getting metal shards in the turbo during drilling and tapping. Here's where my EGT gauge is installed on my BOSS Sr. - on the bottom of the turbo...
When I had my CT26 I just used the stock heat shield combined with my exhaust manifold and downpipe being coated with Jet-Hot 2000. I also had the stock heat shields on the manifold. It worked well IMO but of course my intake pipe still got hot. I never took any temp readings so I don't have...
I'm a novice when it comes to standalone management. Within the next 12 months I plan on switching from piggyback to standalone (most likely the AEM v.1 unit). I have started to read this forum to learn more, but I have a situation that I'd like to fix now and am looking for some advice...
I'd say to definitely check the PCV system. If it's connected incorrectly it could be over pressurizing the crankcase and causing seals to blow. It's hard to believe that all of those seals were installed incorrectly (not impossible, just hard to imagine). Does your oil dipstick ever seem to...
gmsotaku, Here are a couple of threads on this board that discuss the stud/head issue. Hands down, go with the studs:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?84568-BHG-Arp-Head-bolts-or-studs&highlight=head+studs...
FWIW, I used the studs on my rebuild because people said that they were better than the bolts. It's been 6 years since my rebuild and no problems to report. Unfortunately that's all I know.
I have quite a bit of water leaking in. I replaced the spoiler seals and the wiper gasket but no luck. I even removed my lower glass molding, cleaned it, siliconed it, and it still leaks. Next step is to buy new molding and foam washers.
The meter ranged too low is what it was. My Fluke had two kOhm settings and I used the one that was too low. I put it on Auto range and everything checked out ok. Phew.
I'm actually in the market for a new turbo. I agree that it would be sweet to have this setup even if it's just from a historical aspect. However, looks like a grand plus $400 and change for shipping and as MA71_Static says, I do think it would be wise to have the turbo's rebuilt. They claim...
I'm running 18's. 235/40 on the front, 265/35 on the rear. In California they were fine but now that I'm in the Northeast, they are very rough to drive on the poor roads around here (potholes, unevenness, etc). Id switch to 17's but I have the Willwood 13" brake kit and my 18's provide enough...
Thanks JetJock. I was playing with it today and got it to be 100% closed (no light peeking through the edges). I'll adjust it so there's a little bit of light coming through. Thanks for the info on idle too.
If it's a daily driver, I'd personally go with a full face. I had a 6 puck and although it grabbed like an SOB, I found it uncomfortable to use as a daily driver. I swapped mine out with a South Bend Stage 3 OFE (Feramic/Organic) clutch with Cryo treatment. I love it. It grabs and it's...
I thought that it may be slightly open due to two reasons.
#1 was that whoever had my car prior to me messed with the dashpot set screw on the throttle body (the yellow paint was broken) and looking into my throttle body with a light behind it, I could see a small gap all around the throttle...
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