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Thanks for the info, yeah the autoshop article makes sense. I'll try another TPS and see what measurements I get from that. I had another question that is related - do you know what the spec is for the gap between the throttle plate and housing when the throttle is fully closed? I think that...

The VC-E2 spec of 4.25-8.25. My meter reads no continuity regardless of throttle position. I even took the sensor completely off and I still get a 0L.

Thanks ben1984j! So if I'm getting no continuity (0L) then my TPS is probably bad, correct?

Scotty, I'm right there with you. I can't seem to get my TPS to pass every test (see attached photo). But here's a question that I have. What does the "-" mean in the last test (VC-E2). Does that mean throttle valve fully open?

ben1984j, thanks for the clarification. I tried it that way and I'm still not able to get all the measurements within spec. Maybe my TPS is shot. I'll try another one.

I know that there are a ton of TPS threads so I'm sorry for adding yet another one. I'm having TPS adjustment trouble and am wondering if anybody can help. I've followed the TSRM as well as this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97689. I really hope that I'm doing...

mkiiichip, thanks for the link. great info.

I'm wondering if any of you guys installed the ATI with the engine in the car. I'm looking at replacing my stock damper. Assuming that the fan and radiator have to come out to remove and install.

Hmmm...I'm wondering if I'm having a problem with my stock damper. I've had trouble lining up the cam gears exactly to the match marks and have the crank damper line up with 0*. Then when I do time it, the mark on the damper jumps around a little bit, although the car seems to be running...

Daxter85, IMO to do it right you need to resurface the head and block for a MHG. The MHG's are much more reliable than composite gaskets but are less forgiving when it comes defects in the head and block. I used a Cometic MHG for my rebuild and Cometic recommended that the surface finish be...

7M FTW. That rocks.

I just painted and installed my plasti-dipped windshield cowl. Here are some pics of what it looks like. I used 4 thin coats. I'm a little worried about it catching dirt easily since the surface is textured. I do like the way it looks though.

Cool, thanks for the info. Good point about the rubber.

RazoE, I just bought some Plasti-Dip and am going to paint my windshield cowl this week. Mine is in great shape with no rust or peeling - it's just terribly faded and looks crappy behind my newly painted wiper arms. I had two questions for ya if you don't mind. How many coats did you put on...

WOW. Never knew they existed. Cool.

I wouldn't but I'm kinda a purist and like to keep my body in stock form (well except for the rims. I had no choice when I installed the wilwood brakes).

I can't say that my filter is larger but I relocated my filter and replaced the filter with a Canton Racing filter. Swapping the filter is now a piece of cake. Can't say that I've noticed a difference in the way it filters the oil but Canton claims it does a good job.

I have the same problem on my 89. It only happens on the drivers side. I replaced the wiper rubber seal and all the seals on my spoiler. that didn't work so then I used silicone to seal the lower window molding, but still no luck. My next steps are to do what mkiiichip suggests.

Stock 89.

I was getting the crank to TDC using a socket wrench on the harmonic balancer pulley. Did what I had to do, got distracted, and forgot about the wrench. Started her up. Bam. The socket got jammed against the radiator. I ended up loosening the crank pulley bolt, putting a nice size dent in...