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I'm posting this because I figure that some of us have done something similar. If not, just say yes and humor me because I'm feeling pretty stupid right now ;) So I decided to take an hour or so to check my timing and CPS today because I've had a small missing/hesitation issue. Well, all...

I am troubleshooting a hesitation/missing situation on my 89T and I started with testing the ignition components per the TSRM. All looked fine except for my CPS. I am reading a resistance of 197 Ohms which is out of spec as the TSRM lists a max of 180. I've read the CPS rebuild threads...

I've done similar and it sucks. For this issue, my first reaction was that it must be the FPR or gauge. If it wasn't for the feedback on this thread, I probably would have started with buying another gauge or FPR. This was my first fuel line issue and I learned a lot. Kudo's Supramania...

Reminds me of my IT days when we used to say PEBCAC (problem exists between chair and computer). This was definitely a user (me) error. I forgot about the rubber transition piece and kept on thinking...what could possibly be kinked. Well, boom, there it is. Since I hadn't been running a...

Well, it indeed was a restriction in the return line. The rubber transition between the hard line and the stainless line became twisted, most likely my fault when either installing the line or moving the FPR (which I did a few months ago). I removed a clamp, untwisted the line and checked...

Ok, well here's some more info. I didn't post this before because I thought that the flutter of the gauge needle was normal due to engine vibration. However, when I just googled looking for more information, I ran across a video on youtube of someone's FPR gauge that was fluttering just like...

I was able to adjust the fuel pressure with the Defi. This was about 4 years ago after I completed my rebuild. I'll do a visual check on the fuel lines from the tank to the engine and see if anything looks abnormal. If all is ok, I'll call Aeromotive and/or Jeg's (where I purchased it) and...

Wiring wise, the 255HP is wired using the stock wiring. I still have the resistor in place. I'll get under the car and check the lines for a visible kink. The bucket idea is interesting...if I can't find an answer doing everything else, I'll try it (and be very careful of course :))

I'll check into that. I assume that a restriction would lead to the higher fuel pressure, correct? I have had what sounds like missing, especially noticeable at idle. Any tips on tracking down a restriction, other than pulling everything apart from the fuel tank to engine (which I'm...

I didn't change anything else. Running-wise, I have had a problem with the car missing a bit. I notice it at idle and it's been going on for years. I've checked timing, TPS, CPS, replaced plugs, coil packs, etc. Maybe I have a fuel delivery problem....

The gauge is in the side 1/8 NPT port on the FPR, which is where Aeromotive states to install the gauge. My old electronic pressure sender was also here. As far as the entire FPR, I have the port on the bottom plumbed into the fuel return line and the side port on the FPR is plumbed directly...

Ha, I was wondering if someone was going to ask me about the title. I took a video using my laptop and by default it records as a mirror image. To get the photo that I attached, I froze the video and took a desktop pic of the window. Then I reversed it. As far as the regulator goes, It's...

I am getting some really odd readings on my newly installed AFPR gauge and I was wondering if any of you have had a similar issue. My setup is a Walbro fuel pump, Aeromotive A1000-6 regulator, s/s fuel lines, removal of the J tube restriction, RC 550 injectors. I've had this setup for a few...

Well, I replaced my rear KS and boom, no more code 52! Shaeff, your harness works perfectly - no problem there. I checked the KS that I removed and it was definitely damaged - the plastic male connector housing was slightly bent to one side - it most likely happened when I replaced the starter.

Yeah, if I was a betting man, I'd say that's what happened (damaged rear KS). I have a new (well, used) KS on the way, so I'll swap out the rear one first and see what happens. I'll do a continuity check on the new wire harness tomorrow.

I installed the new harness per Shaeff's directions, but I'll check the grounding again.

Yeah I did, two different times. Both times I left the fuse out for a good 60 seconds. When I start driving the car, the check engine light doesn't illuminate until I hit 2500-3000 RPMS, then boom it lights up and stays lit until I turn the car off. Always code 52. I didn't get the code...

I'm getting a code 52 and I've already replaced the wiring harness with one I bought from Shaeff. I've ordered a knock sensor from ebay, but it's gonna take a week to get here. Which leads me to my question: How dangerous is it to drive with the code? I know that my ECU will retard timing...

Ah, cool. One piece of the puzzle. Thanks!

A while ago I relocated my battery to the backseat area (I make the passenger in the back hold it - no kidding, I removed my back seat). I've had intermittent electrical issues so I'm trying to troubleshoot. One piece of the puzzle is trying to identify where the original battery cables...