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normal. There always like that

Not an issue. Most of the diff cover is blocked by the subframe. The biggest cooling part is the fins on the bottom and the air that hits the front of the diff.

If your not going to change the system from pressure based to full flow then just leave it. Doesn't take much to relocate it.

1 hose goes from upper water neck and the other goes from the lower water neck. So no they go from different spots. And the coolant is only there to help cool it down more for longer life.

Personally I wouldn't use it.

You won't have power to the wire. A voltage is generated every time the wheel passes by the sensor. You can check the resistance of the sensor and the wire but the best method to check a cam or crank sensor is with a oscilliscope.

You can get the bearings by them selfs at Toyota.

Head gasket is likely blown. Also the fan clutch is most likely bad as well.

What's te picture of? Sounds like thrust washer. If it was shift fork you would have lost 1 and 2.

that link says the pin numbers on the connector. if you click next page to the end of that section which is only a couple pages it shows the connectors and there respective pin locations. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=52

You will not be able to use all the factory clamps as the new silicone hoses are much thicker. its best to use some sort of hose clamp that does not eat cut into the silicone as well. a normal worm gear clamp can eat into it.

If you have a pre 89 i would stick to those sensors. ive seen many a issue where people switch from an older sensor to a newer on and vise versa and have issues.

Not exact but both complete together should be around 700lbs or so. 1/2 ton on the cherry picker is more than enough.

Inspect the Ecu. Also look into the map sensor.

Should have grounded them like factory. Second the 1j sensor prolly won't work as its meant for 2.5l and has a different resonance.

Those are not the correct calipers. Look back a couple pages. They have gone up in price because everyone just started buying them up like crazy.

You could. It will be easier with it out. The shift fork detents need to be removed before the extension housing comes off as well.

What happened was the reverse idler gear fell into its position putting the trans into reverse and making the shifter useless. What ever you did after that you need to undo. and out it back to stock as that's the only way it will work. When that happens you need to pull the case apart and...

The part that seals plastic lens? It's only about 10-15$ it's 3m window seal or butyl rubber glue.

the system needs to be filled and the low pressure switch needs to be good in order for the compressor to be turned on as well