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I've tried that but it wont stay on. Is there suppose to be a o-ring inside of it or something. ---------- Post added at 06:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:04 PM ---------- i fixed it just had to think outside the box used a bit of vacuum hose

I was wondering if i can fix it. The filter or what ever it is came off. Or do i have to buy another one.

THANK THE GODS OF SPEED!!!!!! So i take it that it just has to do with the wiring of the knock sensor or the knock sensor its self i have an extra plug that i can use. So i will take a look at that in the morning.

I just got code 52 (Knock Sensor Signal). I'm not going to come to the conclusion that i have rod knock just yet as i worked my ass off getting this motor in. I will pick up a stethoscope tomorrow and see what i can make of it. Is there any symptoms I should be looking for when I check it out.

I tried to adjust it but im not too sure that im doing it right. I've taken a look at the TSRM specs and did exactly what it says to do but the readings i get are strange.

Yup, but now I've got to figure out some bugs like I've got a code 51. I'm going to try and find that problem out in the morning. It also likes to cut out for a second when I give it some juice and it dies sometimes after I bring it up to 4k then let off the gas but other than that it idles perfect.

Thank you. I knew it was something simple that was just laughing at me in the face.

I missed that when your testing it when the throttle is closed you have to test VTA and E2 terminals. Then IDL and E2 when using the feeler gauges and then VTA and E2 when the throttle is wide open.

Well i went and got another multi meter and TSRM said to test the bottom two prongs on the TPS but nothing comes up but when i tryed the top two prongs I got reading. The strange thing is that on tsrm it said to test the top two on the GE not the GTE

The trouble areas are not to specific with this code. I'm thinking that it might be the TPS as when i give it some throttle it cuts out for a second then it revs up. I have another TPS that im going to try out.

Well i got it started it turned out to be that 100A fuse now ive got to time it now

i think i figured out my problem the 100A fuse that is is inline between the battery and the power cable to the starter appears to be blown

thanks for the info on the dash lights i will check TSRM tomorrow where its at but ive got to wake up in like 5 hours so i will post later if i get it to work

Well i talked to a Toyota certified mechanic today and he printed me out the wiring diagram for the starting system and told me how to bypass the CSS and the theft deterrent system to try and start the car that way which it didn't work, which leads me to believe that the starter is the problem...

if you dont run with a BPV it can cause compresor surge which is pretty bad on the turbo causing the turbo to spin backwards forcing exhaust to be forced back in to the combustion chamber

nothing at all

what do you mean by idiot lights the only thing that lights up on the dash is the light for when the door is open and when i turn my high beams on

I checked all the fuses and they are fine now and tried the security trick even unhooked the battery but still nothing. To go with it the dash board wont light up when i turn on the head lights. does this sound like a short, or could it be a bad ground.

Was just lookin at TSRM and there isn't a NSS on manual cars its a backup lite switch, and i think that its either going to be the fact that some of the fuse were messed up or the security issue but i have to wait tell wensday to figure that out as i start my new job at 6:30 AM but owell 11...

i know but it was worth a shot and i ment to say the CSS not the NSS and alot of the fuses were all melted and what not so im off to the store to buy some right now