Recent content by steveyblack

was thinking about selling the supra for a reliable dd (2004-6ish corolla/civic/ect) but I still want to make bad decisions

Im at about 375 and I found that the driveline is the ends up taking the beating. If you have it out, I would do it while you are there. With my suspension regularly maintained (subframe retorque, new bj/tr, better pads/rotors) and stock drive line it drove nice and straight, however after a few...

I reused it from my old rack but it looked in good condition. any way to check? Its an 87 so its non pps and the rack is non pps.

Hey SM I am having a problem with my steering on my supra. I have a new rack, new tie rods, new rack bushings, PS pump/lines, all within the last 2k miles. Anyway in the corners my steering feels tight and on point, its when I am going in a straight line it starts to feel loose. If I cruise...

Bumping this up. I am wondering if the rack flare is different then the flare that is used on DM 17mm fitting.

I am interested in this too, I have a PS system that wont bleed and I am wondering if this is the cause of my problems.

Ditto. For ~450 I would like to see how they look on the road before committing to buy a pair, otherwise it looks like the mk3 supra finally has an easy headlight upgrade available =].

has anyone had success with different metal treatment on the stock gears, ie stop peen/ cryo treated? Im guessing factors such as sprung and unsprung clutches will also depend on how much power you can put down. From what ive seen its shock load that does these transmissions in.

I have the replica driftmotion Al rad and it does not fit that well. I needed to modify my upper brackets along with my lower rad isolaters.

Hey guys I knew I had a bit of rust in my car but since the car got put on the back burner for a few years so I could finish my degree, and the rust seemed to get worse since I last had everything apart. Below is some pictures of rust. As much as I love having everything OEM I think I may just...

Rear quarter/spare wheel-well sheet metal replacements would be a good starting point. +1 on window trim, iirc its 1300 for the window trim all around, if it goes to the 400-600 range I would highly consider buying.

If you couldnt find the exact replacement, you could probably just make your own using brass fittings. Check out mcmaster/grainger/fastenal for what you need.

Its alot easier to get a section cut from a clean car then replace the whole section by forming and welding metal in. Theres always more rust then you think, by getting a cut section you only have to cut and replace.

I still say that the forum gets good traffic daily , there isn't many big break throughs since we are working with a 25 year old car , most of what people need to know is already out there. I remember when r154s were 250 all day. If I knew how high the price would have gone I would have saved...

IIRC the problem with the flaming river rack is to do with the steering rack to steering shaft coupler. From the threads I have read, they say that the shaft coupler or the steering shaft needs to be modified which is a big No-No. I just replaced my rack in my car, granted I had the engine...