haha i know the feeling too too well. I have a few family members from your country. byron bay i think is where some of them live. they always moan about how cold and wet it is if there over in the uk visiting
rod knock?
- Thread starter Finnon
- Start date
right i pulled the alt belt and the air con belt. still got clicky type noise. doesnt seem as bad/ loud as before though. but perhaps thats just because theres now no fan noise etc. How does the pas belt come off? is there a pivot bolt underneath that ill have to loosen from beneath the car?
Its just starting to get dark now so gonna be restricted for time again soon.
one thing i thought about today. could it be an exhaust manifold leak? i had a noise on my other supra where it clicked like mad on startup but went away within a few minutes. was cured by re sealing the manifold to head gasket
Its just starting to get dark now so gonna be restricted for time again soon.
one thing i thought about today. could it be an exhaust manifold leak? i had a noise on my other supra where it clicked like mad on startup but went away within a few minutes. was cured by re sealing the manifold to head gasket
right a new vid wif alt belt and air con belt removed
remember i only had at best an hour to do this once id finished work. its now dark outside and its 1855 here
remember i only had at best an hour to do this once id finished work. its now dark outside and its 1855 here
Finnon;1155918 said:right a new vid wif alt belt and air con belt removed
remember i only had at best an hour to do this once id finished work. its now dark outside and its 1855 here
Just do the spark plug lead test. It takes like 2 minutes and then you will know if it is coming from a particular cylinder. You dont need pliers. Just stop the engine and pull a lead off at the dizzy. Then start and listen.
It takes much less time than making and uploading a video.
Easier to pull injector clips.
Just pulling one belt isn't isolating much Finn, the Pwr Steer pump has a pivot bolt at the bottom.
AC has the Idler you just loosen the nut in the middle then back the adjuster down.
But having said all that and listening to the engine I really don't think it's anything external.
Does the Balancer wobble at all while it's running?
Just pulling one belt isn't isolating much Finn, the Pwr Steer pump has a pivot bolt at the bottom.
AC has the Idler you just loosen the nut in the middle then back the adjuster down.
But having said all that and listening to the engine I really don't think it's anything external.
Does the Balancer wobble at all while it's running?
rite ill check tomorrow and see what happens. ill check the balancer out aswell. i tried the nut and with the car in gear was still just turning the engine over
It does sound very metallic.
Rod knock is characterised by being regular and very highly correlated with engine rpm (as rpm increases the noise becomes more frequent). It is often not heard at idle and starts to kick in at a couple of thousand rpm.
If you have a buggered big end then if you let the car sit overnight and then start it the bearings will make a hell of a noise until oil pressure builds up.
Rod knock is characterised by being regular and very highly correlated with engine rpm (as rpm increases the noise becomes more frequent). It is often not heard at idle and starts to kick in at a couple of thousand rpm.
If you have a buggered big end then if you let the car sit overnight and then start it the bearings will make a hell of a noise until oil pressure builds up.
It still doesn't sound like RK to me. Rod knock is usually a stead tapping sound directly proportional to engine speed. This sound is unsteady and gets louder with RPM's but not really any faster.
on a cold start up it goes tap tap tap tap as can be heard in my video a few posts back. that was started from cold after standing for a couple of days
it kinda sounds like its coming from the head i would take the valve covers off and take a peek. almost sounds like valve caps or something i would check the head first. its easy to do.
Finnon, have you tried this yet??? You don't need special pliers to do that. If you get shocked just man up and keep going.
amichie;1153091 said:
Suprapowaz!(2);1157216 said:
Or do what IJ suggested and do it using the injector clips. No shock hazard doing that.
tried removing the plug leads. the injector plugs were a bit tight so thought it best to avoid them for now.
the noise is still present though seemed to be a bit quieter with number 2 plug off.
It also seems to have quietend down a lot since i put oil in it. (obvious i guess)
the noise is still present though seemed to be a bit quieter with number 2 plug off.
It also seems to have quietend down a lot since i put oil in it. (obvious i guess)
are there any shavings in the oil or filter?
i think you know your answer though, that man with the hammer is have fun on the crank and rod!
i think you know your answer though, that man with the hammer is have fun on the crank and rod!
ill hav to drop th oil as and when i can. i picked up a new filter so i can whip the old one off and check it before droping the oil. seems silly to have to put fresh oil in if the engine is toast only to have to drain it again. off hand does anyone know if oil filters in general have the same type of thread? i have a filter here i was gonna use on a ford escort engine. the car has since gone for scrap. its the same diameter etc as the toyota filter just about 4 inches longer
Finnon;1158793 said:
Many engines use the same threading for the filter, but I do believe there are a few variations. Just go buy a cheapo. :dunno: