Ridiculous 1000HP 7M Street MK3 Build
- Thread starter NegativeGeForce
- Start date
Tampa. You haven't seen this thing cuz it hasn't been running for about 8 years now.
Just a little update: The transmission is apart finally at a jacks transmissions and they are doing the micropolish on the gears. The motor will be going in once I get the transmission back. This thing "should" run soon....like in a month soon.
I was going to strip down half the car again, rebush a mint 89+front subframe I have with the nylon kit, install my 14" wilwood brakes but I decided that I just need to get this running and driving before I complicate things further. With my luck i'll probably end up scratching fresh paint and then getting pissed off. Better to get everything "sorted" with the drivetrain first before I tackle cosmetic / suspension crap.
Just a little update: The transmission is apart finally at a jacks transmissions and they are doing the micropolish on the gears. The motor will be going in once I get the transmission back. This thing "should" run soon....like in a month soon.
I was going to strip down half the car again, rebush a mint 89+front subframe I have with the nylon kit, install my 14" wilwood brakes but I decided that I just need to get this running and driving before I complicate things further. With my luck i'll probably end up scratching fresh paint and then getting pissed off. Better to get everything "sorted" with the drivetrain first before I tackle cosmetic / suspension crap.
How I see things going down:
First attempt:
1. wire up proefi myself
2. attempt to get the 36-1 trigger wheel firmware with a 2jz vvti tune working
3. hope the car starts.
4. fail.
Second attempt:
1. tow the car to induction performance and have them get this thing running, lol
If I get this thing running first attempt im pretty much gonna feel like a god and be an asshole for the rest of my life. Talking to proefi support i don't see why it wouldn't start and run but who f'n knows. The ignition strategy is a black box to me at this point.
First attempt:
1. wire up proefi myself
2. attempt to get the 36-1 trigger wheel firmware with a 2jz vvti tune working
3. hope the car starts.
4. fail.
Second attempt:
1. tow the car to induction performance and have them get this thing running, lol
If I get this thing running first attempt im pretty much gonna feel like a god and be an asshole for the rest of my life. Talking to proefi support i don't see why it wouldn't start and run but who f'n knows. The ignition strategy is a black box to me at this point.
Very interested to see if it goes well first try. I am sure there are going to be a few bugs like all builds tho. Cant wait to see it fire up.
I know i want to do trigger wheel setups on mine, but I am a bit unsure on how to go about which tooth to set it on and wiring/programing it. Where did you find the information on how to do it?
I know i want to do trigger wheel setups on mine, but I am a bit unsure on how to go about which tooth to set it on and wiring/programing it. Where did you find the information on how to do it?
Yeah I do think it will run first try but I just have some uncertainty based on what proefi told me. They basically told me the 36-1 wheel can be oriented any clock position and I just need to have the cam sync event occur between any crank falling edge and just before TDC. It just seems like the missing tooth should be play a greater part to determine the crank angle than they say it does. Looking at the 2JZ VVTI crank trigger which utilizes a 36-2 I found the sensor sits exactly 180 degrees out from the two missing teeth. I believe that is to just orient the wheel so the missing tooth is always +- 60 degrees away from the ignition event(s).
I found that the Megasquirt documentation has been the greatest resource in general for how various modern EFI strategies operate. You can probably pickup a lot just from browsing it.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html
I found that the Megasquirt documentation has been the greatest resource in general for how various modern EFI strategies operate. You can probably pickup a lot just from browsing it.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html
With megasquirt it doesnt matter where you put the missing tooth. I just set one up that was 300 deg BTDC as thats where i already had the pickup etc mounted and it works fine. Hopefully your ecu can do the same.
I know it's a bit late, but if you want to make a billet oil pump drive gear, SDP-SI sells timing pulley stock. You will need to size it, but I used some on a CNC router project for a spinning ball nut a few years ago, it's very nice stuff.
it's here: http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog under Pulleys > Timing Pulley Stock
it's here: http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog under Pulleys > Timing Pulley Stock
Missing tooth would only be used if you did not have crank sync. The cam is telling it when #1 is TDC. Very nice build!
Seth
Seth
Not much of an update. I've been distracted with girls ^_^
I got everything I need to put this pile of crap together except a bunch of little things. I need to order some more crap then I am gonna throw this thing together on my xmas break.
Most recent needed piece I got was the Jacks Trans stage 3 + micropolish R154.
I got everything I need to put this pile of crap together except a bunch of little things. I need to order some more crap then I am gonna throw this thing together on my xmas break.
Most recent needed piece I got was the Jacks Trans stage 3 + micropolish R154.
I'm wondering on yours, if you notice, did they silicone the bolts on the front plate? Mine were, had it redone properly at my shop and made sure it didn't leak prior to installation. Ran three tanks through the car (not quite) and changed the fluid. Was black with a lot of shiny specks. Cars parked with fresh trans lube in it. Planning on one more fluid change after 3000-5000 km. my second gear is fairly stiff. (Stage 3 build)
I didn't really look at the front plate. All I did really to inspect it was turn the input shaft and it feels like glass, lol. Overall the trans looks really high quality, but I guess time will tell. I will check out the front plate and see what they did there, but i'm 100% confident they built this thing better than toyota ever could.
All the internals are polished and should look like the input shaft which has a mirror like sheen to it. It would def be a red flag if I get any crap in my fluid as there is nothing to wear off so to speak from the polished surfaces.
All the internals are polished and should look like the input shaft which has a mirror like sheen to it. It would def be a red flag if I get any crap in my fluid as there is nothing to wear off so to speak from the polished surfaces.
They do good work. Plus they will make right whatever is wrong. They paid shipping, R&R costs and bought and built me a replacement.
Jesus christ that is pristine. I wish I had the know how to do stuff like thisNegativeGeForce;2005141 said:threw the head and and got most of the stuff bolted on to do a mockup.
HK$ stopper money shot
One day I hope my engine is as clean as this!