Limiting 1st gear wheel spin - ideas?

Apr 6, 2005
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It's been a while since I paged through my AVCR user manual, but I midly recollect it mentioining in some vague manner that it was limited to 35PSI or 2.5X w/g spring. This may be true for most EVC's depending on it's onboard MAP capability.

tekdeus;1506646 said:
It's a Tial 44mm. Well, I can go back to the 10psi spring, but then the boost is considerably less stable at the 21-22psi that I run normally, and won't hold 25psi when I spike it with race gas. With the Tial springs available, it was either 10psi or 13psi, but mine seems to go up to 14psi with the 13psi springs.


This doesn't work so well when trying to beat an AWD Subaru off the line at a stop light ;)
 

tekdeus

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Jan 23, 2006
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IJ.;1506679 said:
Something wrong in the plumbing or pipe work then Brad, I ran a 5psi spring in my V44 and was 100% stable to 24psi.
gofastgeorge;1506688 said:
+1 on that Ian.
Spongy lines, or too much length can lead to boost instability.

Good to know, I thought 2x WG spring was the general limit for EBC's. If I can get it stable with the smaller spring it would solve my problem. Were did you have your solenoid mounted Ian? Mine is on the fender area where the ABS unit used to be, so the lines are a bit long, 15"-18" to reach the wastegate down below, part of which those lines are silicone, and part that hard rubber line supplied by APEX'I. Maybe I should move the AVCR solenoid from the fenderwell to further underneath the car to shorten the lines? Or should I just upgrade the lines? Is that harder rubber line the way to go? Where would I buy it?

Dave, yes both ports are hooked up like the AVCR instructions show.
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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Mine was mounted up on the firewall on the exhaust side Brad, my lines were fairly long but quite stiff construction being 4mm EFI hose (it didn't cope with the temps so has been changed to silicone)

I swapped a 3psi spring in for the Chev to aid TRAC.

What I found was all it took was a small spike to break traction then the engine needs to make very little power to keep it spinning...

Light spring + the AVCR set up for gear sensing/ gear based boost settings should be fine.
 

tekdeus

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Jan 23, 2006
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IJ.;1506871 said:
Mine was mounted up on the firewall on the exhaust side Brad, my lines were fairly long but quite stiff construction being 4mm EFI hose (it didn't cope with the temps so has been changed to silicone)

Hmm, the APEX'I hose is hard as a rock, and the silicone is certainly more flexible. Maybe I'll try replacing the silicone sections with the harder EFI hose and some heat wrap, unless I can find more of that APEX'I line for sale somewhere.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Pity that the AVCR doesn't have a way to remote trigger the A and B settings then you could hook it to the AC's ambient temp sensor behind the grill and have the safe setting automatic! ;)

I know you don't really drive the car in the rain but all it takes is 2psi boost at 100 mph in the wet to light the rears up and fill your underwear with da brown ;)
 

kwnate

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Jul 10, 2005
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None of your fucking business
InFrnt0fU;1506767 said:
Wow, just not answering would have got the point across. No need to be a jackass about it.


That was me being nice. Now don't add anymore ridiculous nonsense to a good thread.


Brad, get some 12"-14" wide wheels with sticky 345's or for the same price get a good standalone with trac.
 

TheNewRed

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Oct 19, 2007
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Just spitballing but, couldnt you use an MSD DIS box that has the switched 10 degree retard for nitrous, and run the switch(maybe like a WOT micro switch used in nitrous kits) to activate when the shifter is in first. Kind of farfetched but whatever, it may kill power enough to hook... I hope you figure it out.
 

IJ.

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TheNewRed;1506911 said:
Just spitballing but, couldnt you use an MSD DIS box that has the switched 10 degree retard for nitrous, and run the switch(maybe like a WOT micro switch used in nitrous kits) to activate when the shifter is in first. Kind of farfetched but whatever... I hope you figure it out.

Which would make it go into "antilag" burning the fuel in the exhaust making more boost/spin.....

I had a bitch of a time figuring out why mine wheelspun more when I had TRAC pull timing till I logged it and noticed an increase in EGT's and Boost.
 

TheNewRed

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IJ.;1506915 said:
Which would make it go into "antilag" burning the fuel in the exhaust making more boost/spin.....

I had a bitch of a time figuring out why mine wheelspun more when I had TRAC pull timing till I logged it and noticed an increase in EGT's and Boost.

Not an option then haha. would it really affect it that much though, how much timing was TRAC pulling on yours IJ?
 

IJ.

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TheNewRed;1506938 said:
Not an option then haha. would it really affect it that much though, how much timing was TRAC pulling on yours IJ?

10 degrees is firmly in the afterburner zone, I limit mine to 3 degrees max and when I went back to Gas and DBW Trac changed it to 0.

The beauty of something like the MoTeC is you can have it based on 2 different inputs ie: Wheelspin x Road speed and have a table to trim the car's behaviour.
 

TheNewRed

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IJ.;1506941 said:
10 degrees is firmly in the afterburner zone, I limit mine to 3 degrees max and when I went back to Gas and DBW Trac changed it to 0.

Damn, afterburner status!
 

IJ.

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In my car it being so quiet you could hear the turbo spool as TRAC kicked in.
(once I fugured out exactly what it was doing and knew what I was hearing)

Had the Tech's at MoTeC pulling their hair out when we first set it up as they'd e-mail me a file I'd run it log it and report back, I kept saying worse,worse,worse...... ;)

TRAC was the reason I got rid of the Wolf 500 and went MoTeC.
 

tekdeus

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Jan 23, 2006
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IJ.;1506956 said:
In my car it being so quiet you could hear the turbo spool as TRAC kicked in.
(once I fugured out exactly what it was doing and knew what I was hearing)

Had the Tech's at MoTeC pulling their hair out when we first set it up as they'd e-mail me a file I'd run it log it and report back, I kept saying worse,worse,worse...... ;)

TRAC was the reason I got rid of the Wolf 500 and went MoTeC.

I'll bet you were wishing you had chosen an AWD platform on more than on occasion. :biglaugh: Hooking up 600-800awhp on street tires sounds pretty ideal!
 

IJ.

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tekdeus;1506965 said:
I'll bet you were wishing you had chosen an AWD platform on more than on occasion. :biglaugh: Hooking up 600-800awhp on street tires sounds pretty ideal!

It was fail fail fail and fail some more till I went DBW Brad, EVERYTHING we tried just plain didn't work and that was on a 10psi spring in the 3540r internal gate...

The Tial is a totally different beast and is so stable/predictable and allows you to set any target boost on any spring that's below the target.

We ran my 5 pound spring at 30psi a few times on the dyno.
 

tekdeus

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Jan 23, 2006
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IJ.;1506972 said:
We ran my 5 pound spring at 30psi a few times on the dyno.

Was it that stable with silicone lines as well? Or is that on your new setup yet to be tested? I can see now how a silicone vac line could flex and cushion the air pulses from the solenoid at 20-30psi, possibly lowering boost control stability.
 

MRSUPRA

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Apr 11, 2005
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Easiest solution: Get R compound tires. I just ordered Nitto 555DR's for my car which have a nice compromise between straight line traction, cornering grip, and wear.