ForcedTorque's Slick/Quick Build

ForcedTorque

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As many have been following, I have been building a 3E5 for quite some time waiting on paint as the last step. As I struggled with clutch issues in that car, I had to pull the motor to get flywheel bolts out that were stubborn. At that time, I found my PAINT in the for of David Z's old Fast Toy. It's a 92 with only 97,000 on the clock. The car has magazine coverage already, and a history of 674RWHP. I'll probably never take it that far again. A modest 400 will be enough for me. Thus the Slick/Quick title. Quick has absolutely nothing to do with the build time I can assure you.

This will be the start of a whole new set of set backs I'm sure. I've tried for 2 days to get Aaron on the phone with no luck on some new flywheel bolts. I'm going to e-mail him today. I also found my first hurdle last night. It's in the whole relocated battery/wiring removed from the engine bay fuse block area. I can' get power in the car yet.

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ForcedTorque

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gtsfirefighter;1313324 said:
Are you going to put the battery and stuff back in the engine bay? Shouldn't be that hard...I hope anyway.

See answer below Ken

jugodegolf;1313781 said:
Looking good.:love::love:

Beat you to it........Na-Na na Na-Na

Zerocool;1313858 said:
Scott, I hope this build goes better then the last :) and now you wont half to worry about paint ;)
i'm going to try to make this one match your standards Clint............or at least come close.

Mk3runner;1313860 said:
Keep batt in trunk.. You just swapping over old setup?
Battery STAYS in the trunk, I like it there. I have a couple extra trunk boards, so I am going to cut one to fit around it, and get with George's girl on doing me some carpet to also go around it. I am swapping over my motor (3rd car now) and tranny with a new Driftmotion clutch. Only fear s here are wiring harness matching the car, and did I hurt anything with the cylinder rope trick. I sure hope not!

mk3design;1313786 said:
Ill be watching, good luck with everything!

Please don't laugh as I fumble my way through another build:naughty:

LilMissMkIII;1313791 said:
Not bewb-worthy yet! :sarcasm:

:wavey: Welcome Kristel! Glad you have stuck around with me through the thick, maybe this thread will be a little thinner.


GC89;1313857 said:
I don't know K, maybe if he gets us some more pics of that super clean interior:love:

I have a few things taken apart right now, but I will get more pictures of it once it get's put back.

===================================================================================

Car update for today. I orderred a new set of ARP Flywheel bolts and a set of valve cover gaskets from Driftmotion today. It won't be long, and I'll have the motor back in this car.

Also, I called my body man today. I had to re-find him , but I did. Prices I got for painting both bumpers and my Bomex parts were somewhat reasonable. My beloved Grey Leather seats sold today, so that will be a good start on the paint project.
 

ForcedTorque

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I got my new ARP Flywheel Bolts from Driftmotion today, along with a new set of Valve Cover Gaskets. So, This will definitely be a work weekend.

Can anybody tell me the best way to install the gaskets. I am thinking I should use 5-6 small dabs of FIPG on each one and torque to specs (what would be proper).
 

gtsfirefighter

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I didn't use any FIPG on my valve cover gaskets. Since they were soft I just pushed them into the groove and bolted them down. I can't remember what I torqued them down to though. Ten thousand miles and no leaking.
 

enjoi.this

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ForcedTorque;1314911 said:
Can anybody tell me the best way to install the gaskets. I am thinking I should use 5-6 small dabs of FIPG on each one and torque to specs (what would be proper).

Use the FIPG on the valve cover itself, place rubber gasket into the valve cover. Then use a thin layer of grease between the gasket and the head. This will insure a leak free seal :)
 

suprahero

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I hope to one day see this car finished and at a Supra meet near me.................crosses fingers.

I'll be back when there's some boobage posted by Kristel.
 

ForcedTorque

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One Step Closer!!!!!!!!!!!!


Here's a pic I have waited 3 months to take. The entire old clutch has now been removed. I got the old pilot bearing out with the newspaper and PB Blaster method (Dave I tried your method first). New Pilot Bearing is in, and I mounted up the resurfaced flywheel with new ARP hardware.

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Now, I have a question or two to ask. I know the answer, but I am going to ask anyway. I put a lot of heat to the bolts trying to get them out. I heated the crank to get the pilot out before trying this. Should I replace my rear main seal? I see no signs of heat on the current fairly new seal. It looks fine. But, I do NOT ever want to go through this again. The answer is probably replace it for peace of mind, and because it is cheap to do. So, if I am replacing it, I have a couple of questions. Does the oil pan need to be removed to replace it? Is a parts store seal OK, or do I need to get a Toyota? Is there anything I should be aware of while doing it?

Also, For the flywheel, is there anything I can do to slow the surface rust? Can I assume that a few spins of a clutch will take care of it? Will WD-40 be Ok on it? I don't want to slick a friction surface without knowing for sure.
 

enjoi.this

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ForcedTorque;1316418 said:
One Step Closer!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now, I have a question or two to ask. I know the answer, but I am going to ask anyway. I put a lot of heat to the bolts trying to get them out. I heated the crank to get the pilot out before trying this. Should I replace my rear main seal? I see no signs of heat on the current fairly new seal. It looks fine. But, I do NOT ever want to go through this again. The answer is probably replace it for peace of mind, and because it is cheap to do. So, if I am replacing it, I have a couple of questions. Does the oil pan need to be removed to replace it? Is a parts store seal OK, or do I need to get a Toyota? Is there anything I should be aware of while doing it?

Also, For the flywheel, is there anything I can do to slow the surface rust? Can I assume that a few spins of a clutch will take care of it? Will WD-40 be Ok on it? I don't want to slick a friction surface without knowing for sure.

Rear main seal replacement would definatly be a peace of mind. If its fairly new it should be ok as long as it wasnt heated to the point of melting. Somewhere around 250 degrees should be alright. Maybe just inspect the lips and spring on the seal to determine.

From what I recall the pan will have to be removed to get the seal retainer out.

Dont wd40 your flywheel, if anything clean off the flywheel before attaching tranny. The clutch will burn off that little bit of surface rust within seconds.
 

gtsfirefighter

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ChrisC;1316438 said:
From what I recall the pan will have to be removed to get the seal retainer out.

I did not take my pan off when I replaced my rear main seal. I just used a small screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull it out and then just gently tapped the new one into place.

Maybe I did it wrong but it's not leaking now.:dunno:

Scott, I would replace it just for peace of mind sake.