Man, if you went to all that work on the toe arms, why not just take the measurements and get some SPL parts to make ADJUSTABLE toe arms?
eraezer - Supra MK3 -89 -Swedish Build
- Thread starter eraezer
- Start date
scotty;1632590 said:
I thought the same thing. There is too much "metallic" sound in there. I know you don't have exhaust, but there shouldn't be any metal on metal sounds, regardless of that fact. I don't believe you've done anything to the engine during this project...was it ok when you parked the car?
Just started in on my rust work last week...referencing your pictures of the process is already proving very helpful. Thanks for doing all the work to document this well.
SG
I havent done anything to the engine except from removing and reinstalling some parts. And it ran fine when I parked it.
The first film actually shows try number 4. The first one didnt go well due to me bringing another battery. During the second one I heard the "metal on metal" sound and got scared so I checked a lot of stuff.
The third one was for listening to the sound again and what I located it to is the intake sound. Strange perhaps, but if you listen closely that sound will disappear and remember that the sound is not really 100% in these recordings. Some might be due to too little steering fluid, but then again since I dint move the steering wheel (none installed), maybe not.
Another thing which I didnt notice until later was that 3 spark wires are not in their correct spot and I have not started it after I corrected this error. The strange thing is that I havent changed the wires, I removed them from the engine as a package.
The spark plugs have not been changed yet. Since I have owned this car for about 2 years the spark plugs are 2+ years old. I will do another test start before I change these just to see what the wire change does.
Another thing I'm thinking of, does these ECU's need to go through some sort of calibration process when they have been powerless during a lot of time?
Making completely new arms would require a lot more money and time. Since I need to move my supra I don't have the time, so this was the easiest and safest way for me.
The end links is bought from BIC.
Thanks guys!
The first film actually shows try number 4. The first one didnt go well due to me bringing another battery. During the second one I heard the "metal on metal" sound and got scared so I checked a lot of stuff.
The third one was for listening to the sound again and what I located it to is the intake sound. Strange perhaps, but if you listen closely that sound will disappear and remember that the sound is not really 100% in these recordings. Some might be due to too little steering fluid, but then again since I dint move the steering wheel (none installed), maybe not.
Another thing which I didnt notice until later was that 3 spark wires are not in their correct spot and I have not started it after I corrected this error. The strange thing is that I havent changed the wires, I removed them from the engine as a package.
The spark plugs have not been changed yet. Since I have owned this car for about 2 years the spark plugs are 2+ years old. I will do another test start before I change these just to see what the wire change does.
Another thing I'm thinking of, does these ECU's need to go through some sort of calibration process when they have been powerless during a lot of time?
Making completely new arms would require a lot more money and time. Since I need to move my supra I don't have the time, so this was the easiest and safest way for me.
The end links is bought from BIC.
Thanks guys!
The metal on metal sound won't come from any sort of ignition issue (due to plugs, wires, or ECU). I suppose it could be coming from a dry power steering pump, but if that's the case, you better start shopping for a new pump. I would highly recommend finding the source of that noise and fixing it before you try and start the engine again. It sounds bad, and chances are that it will only get worse if you don't repair it immediately. The fact that the sound seems to be coming from the intake is even more disturbing...could you have seized a camshaft over the 2 year sitting period? Check your oil for metal particles.
Good luck. FIND THAT SOUND!
Good luck. FIND THAT SOUND!
Im pretty sure the ecu will recalibrate itself, But i would remove the 15a fuse for a min and then reinsert it. It provides power and resets any codes stored etc. try that and see what your getting after you jump the t and e1 with a paperclip.
im still a student though...:icon_bigg
im still a student though...:icon_bigg
Nah, making new toe arms WOULDNT cost alot of time and money like I said. Its possible to take an overall measurement and then buy 4 simple SPL pieces, the inner and the outter parts that thread together in the middle and are adjustable and then you get the benefit of an inner heim joint instead of bushing 
I did another test start today with spark wires in their right places and filled power steering reservoir(not bled).
It sounds like a proper engine now, but I have a "strangle a cat sound". But it got lesser and lesser and now it's gone after I turned the wheels by hand (still no steering wheel installed).
So my guesses are on the power steering or alternator...
Another problem I have now is that the gauges arent working, no rpm, no oil pressure and no vacuum/boost. During the previous videos I had rpm and vacuum/boost atleast, any thoughts?
It sounds like a proper engine now, but I have a "strangle a cat sound". But it got lesser and lesser and now it's gone after I turned the wheels by hand (still no steering wheel installed).
So my guesses are on the power steering or alternator...
Another problem I have now is that the gauges arent working, no rpm, no oil pressure and no vacuum/boost. During the previous videos I had rpm and vacuum/boost atleast, any thoughts?
Cat sound is probably air in the Pwr Steer circuit, it'll take awhile to bleed out, I'm NOT a fan of Heim joints on road cars unless you can find some way to seal them from the elements, they don't cope well being fullOcrap and will fail in time, the exact scenario you're trying to avoid
Checked the fuses?
Checked the fuses?
The cat sound was the power steering so now it sounds good
The hight pitch sound is the intake.
All I need now is a harness and a bolt for one of the rear calipers.
EDIT: I forgot you IJ. There are small rubber hoods to put on the heim joints so that will keep them sealed. As you said, it was the pwr steer curcuit
The hight pitch sound is the intake.
All I need now is a harness and a bolt for one of the rear calipers.
EDIT: I forgot you IJ. There are small rubber hoods to put on the heim joints so that will keep them sealed. As you said, it was the pwr steer curcuit
Last edited:
-:|Update - 2010-10-20|:-
Today I finished the rear toe arms with some red paint and I cleaned of the stickers
from the cam bolts between the coats.
The stickers were not easy to remove :S
About the diesel sound in the movies in the last update is probably because of the
spark plug wire order. It started with the same order which you can see below. This
is changed now.
I also brought the correct hose for the bov, it was at home for some odd reason.
I'm having some problem with the oil plug not sealing correctly.
Brand new copper ring and I have scraped of the paint to get a metal on metal seal.
It still leaks.
I also installed the front left strut.
Pictures:
Cleaned the stickers of the front & rear cam bolts
Finished painting the rear toe arms
This order does not look right
Found the correct hose for the stock bov
Brand new copper ring and still leaks
Front left strut installed
Today I finished the rear toe arms with some red paint and I cleaned of the stickers
from the cam bolts between the coats.
The stickers were not easy to remove :S
About the diesel sound in the movies in the last update is probably because of the
spark plug wire order. It started with the same order which you can see below. This
is changed now.
I also brought the correct hose for the bov, it was at home for some odd reason.
I'm having some problem with the oil plug not sealing correctly.
Brand new copper ring and I have scraped of the paint to get a metal on metal seal.
It still leaks.
I also installed the front left strut.
Pictures:
Cleaned the stickers of the front & rear cam bolts
Finished painting the rear toe arms
This order does not look right
Found the correct hose for the stock bov
Brand new copper ring and still leaks
Front left strut installed
-:|Update - 2010-10-21|:-
Today I changed the shifter bushings. I don't think that I should have removed
the old one with a knife, but it was stuck in there.
The new one was a bitch to install and I couldn't install it with the rubber ring
underneath. Is it supposed to be there with the new bushing?
Then I installed the shifter and the difference between the bushings are huge!
I could have sat there for hours just changing gear
There is also an image showing that I have changed the spark wire order,
and I have also followed the wires to see that none are wrongly marked.
I found the problem with the oil plug. There is a piece of thread missing
I don't have time to weld a new nut to the pan so I just used some fipg so now it's
leak free at least
Pictures:
Old and new shifter bushings
Is this needed with the new bushing?
Shifter installed
Correct spark plug order
Correct length hoses for the bov
The oil plug is now leak free
Today I changed the shifter bushings. I don't think that I should have removed
the old one with a knife, but it was stuck in there.
The new one was a bitch to install and I couldn't install it with the rubber ring
underneath. Is it supposed to be there with the new bushing?
Then I installed the shifter and the difference between the bushings are huge!
I could have sat there for hours just changing gear
There is also an image showing that I have changed the spark wire order,
and I have also followed the wires to see that none are wrongly marked.
I found the problem with the oil plug. There is a piece of thread missing
I don't have time to weld a new nut to the pan so I just used some fipg so now it's
leak free at least
Pictures:
Old and new shifter bushings
Is this needed with the new bushing?
Shifter installed
Correct spark plug order
Correct length hoses for the bov
The oil plug is now leak free
-:|Update - 2010-10-22|:-
Today I took care of the suspension arms.
I installed all the bushings in their arms and then I installed front left suspension.
I installed both the upper control arm and the lower ball joint to the hub and torqued
them before I installed that assembly onto the car.
Pictures:
First there were some arms without bushings
Then there were some bushings ready to go in
and in the end there were some completed arms
Ball joints installed to the front left hub
Front left suspension in place
Today I took care of the suspension arms.
I installed all the bushings in their arms and then I installed front left suspension.
I installed both the upper control arm and the lower ball joint to the hub and torqued
them before I installed that assembly onto the car.
Pictures:
First there were some arms without bushings
Then there were some bushings ready to go in
and in the end there were some completed arms
Ball joints installed to the front left hub
Front left suspension in place
-:|Update - 2010-10-23|:-
Today I installed the final piece in the brake system, a new pipe from the ABS unit
to the front right wheel house and from that a new brake hose.
Pictures:
A new brake line for front right brake
Brake hose installed
Today I installed the final piece in the brake system, a new pipe from the ABS unit
to the front right wheel house and from that a new brake hose.
Pictures:
A new brake line for front right brake
Brake hose installed
-:|Update - 2010-10-24|:-
Time to do something about the rear, so I rolled it with the same paint I
used inside the car and on all the other red parts that I have painted.
The roller was supposed to work with all kinds of paint but after a coat or two
it started sticking a bit to the car. So the finish is far from what I want it to be.
But then again this is only to protect my car from rust during the winter. So the putty
work is not completed.
I think it's possible to do the "rostoleum" roller painting thing with this paint, so
that is one option if I can't spray paint it when it's time for that.
Pictures:
right side
left side
Time to do something about the rear, so I rolled it with the same paint I
used inside the car and on all the other red parts that I have painted.
The roller was supposed to work with all kinds of paint but after a coat or two
it started sticking a bit to the car. So the finish is far from what I want it to be.
But then again this is only to protect my car from rust during the winter. So the putty
work is not completed.
I think it's possible to do the "rostoleum" roller painting thing with this paint, so
that is one option if I can't spray paint it when it's time for that.
Pictures:
right side
left side
-:|Update - 2010-10-27|:-
Today I installed the rear suspension arms and drive shafts.
I still need to torque the nuts and bolts.
Yesterday I picked up a set of stock rims with winter tires(studs) from a member on
a swedish supra forum. These will come in handy right away since one of the tires which
came with the car has a tiny hole and letting out air very slowly. I have not yet had
time to fix this. Also, since snow is coming this is perfect if I get a garage spot for
my supra and need to move it.
Pictures:
Rear suspension in place
A better pic of the right side after painting
...and the left side
A set of stock rims with winter tires
Today I installed the rear suspension arms and drive shafts.
I still need to torque the nuts and bolts.
Yesterday I picked up a set of stock rims with winter tires(studs) from a member on
a swedish supra forum. These will come in handy right away since one of the tires which
came with the car has a tiny hole and letting out air very slowly. I have not yet had
time to fix this. Also, since snow is coming this is perfect if I get a garage spot for
my supra and need to move it.
Pictures:
Rear suspension in place
A better pic of the right side after painting
...and the left side
A set of stock rims with winter tires
-:|Update - 2010-10-28|:-
Today I installed the brakes all around, but I still need to bleed them.
After that I put in the carpet and then I had to install the driver seat
aswell
Pictures:
Rear breaks
Front breaks
Carpet and the driver seat
Good night
Today I installed the brakes all around, but I still need to bleed them.
After that I put in the carpet and then I had to install the driver seat
aswell
Pictures:
Rear breaks
Front breaks
Carpet and the driver seat
Good night
-:|Update - 2010-10-29|:-
Today I installed the front swaybar and endlinks which marks the finish line
of the front suspension installation.
Pictures:
Front swaybar and endlinks installed
Today I installed the front swaybar and endlinks which marks the finish line
of the front suspension installation.
Pictures:
Front swaybar and endlinks installed
-:|Update - 2010-10-30|:-
Today I installed the rear swaybar, endlinks and the targa bars
which like the previous update marks the finish line of the rear
suspension installation.
Pictures:
Rear suspension is complete
Today I installed the rear swaybar, endlinks and the targa bars
which like the previous update marks the finish line of the rear
suspension installation.
Pictures:
Rear suspension is complete