eraezer - Supra MK3 -89 -Swedish Build

Grimsta

Supramania Contributor
May 30, 2007
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Santa Rosa, Ca.
Man, if you went to all that work on the toe arms, why not just take the measurements and get some SPL parts to make ADJUSTABLE toe arms?
 

spencyg

New Member
Oct 7, 2010
141
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0
Maine, USA
scotty;1632590 said:
Any idea of whats wrong with engine on startup? Doesn't sound too good..

I thought the same thing. There is too much "metallic" sound in there. I know you don't have exhaust, but there shouldn't be any metal on metal sounds, regardless of that fact. I don't believe you've done anything to the engine during this project...was it ok when you parked the car?

Just started in on my rust work last week...referencing your pictures of the process is already proving very helpful. Thanks for doing all the work to document this well.

SG
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
I havent done anything to the engine except from removing and reinstalling some parts. And it ran fine when I parked it.
The first film actually shows try number 4. The first one didnt go well due to me bringing another battery. During the second one I heard the "metal on metal" sound and got scared so I checked a lot of stuff.
The third one was for listening to the sound again and what I located it to is the intake sound. Strange perhaps, but if you listen closely that sound will disappear and remember that the sound is not really 100% in these recordings. Some might be due to too little steering fluid, but then again since I dint move the steering wheel (none installed), maybe not.
Another thing which I didnt notice until later was that 3 spark wires are not in their correct spot and I have not started it after I corrected this error. The strange thing is that I havent changed the wires, I removed them from the engine as a package.
The spark plugs have not been changed yet. Since I have owned this car for about 2 years the spark plugs are 2+ years old. I will do another test start before I change these just to see what the wire change does.
Another thing I'm thinking of, does these ECU's need to go through some sort of calibration process when they have been powerless during a lot of time?

Making completely new arms would require a lot more money and time. Since I need to move my supra I don't have the time, so this was the easiest and safest way for me.

The end links is bought from BIC.

Thanks guys!
 

spencyg

New Member
Oct 7, 2010
141
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0
Maine, USA
The metal on metal sound won't come from any sort of ignition issue (due to plugs, wires, or ECU). I suppose it could be coming from a dry power steering pump, but if that's the case, you better start shopping for a new pump. I would highly recommend finding the source of that noise and fixing it before you try and start the engine again. It sounds bad, and chances are that it will only get worse if you don't repair it immediately. The fact that the sound seems to be coming from the intake is even more disturbing...could you have seized a camshaft over the 2 year sitting period? Check your oil for metal particles.

Good luck. FIND THAT SOUND!
 

Yblegal91t

it finally runs!
Apr 22, 2006
331
0
16
C1 outer
Im pretty sure the ecu will recalibrate itself, But i would remove the 15a fuse for a min and then reinsert it. It provides power and resets any codes stored etc. try that and see what your getting after you jump the t and e1 with a paperclip.

im still a student though...:icon_bigg
 

Grimsta

Supramania Contributor
May 30, 2007
1,081
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Santa Rosa, Ca.
Nah, making new toe arms WOULDNT cost alot of time and money like I said. Its possible to take an overall measurement and then buy 4 simple SPL pieces, the inner and the outter parts that thread together in the middle and are adjustable and then you get the benefit of an inner heim joint instead of bushing :)
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
I did another test start today with spark wires in their right places and filled power steering reservoir(not bled).
It sounds like a proper engine now, but I have a "strangle a cat sound". But it got lesser and lesser and now it's gone after I turned the wheels by hand (still no steering wheel installed).
So my guesses are on the power steering or alternator...
Another problem I have now is that the gauges arent working, no rpm, no oil pressure and no vacuum/boost. During the previous videos I had rpm and vacuum/boost atleast, any thoughts?
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
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62
I come from a land down under
Cat sound is probably air in the Pwr Steer circuit, it'll take awhile to bleed out, I'm NOT a fan of Heim joints on road cars unless you can find some way to seal them from the elements, they don't cope well being fullOcrap and will fail in time, the exact scenario you're trying to avoid ;)

Checked the fuses?
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
The cat sound was the power steering so now it sounds good :)
The hight pitch sound is the intake.

All I need now is a harness and a bolt for one of the rear calipers.

EDIT: I forgot you IJ. There are small rubber hoods to put on the heim joints so that will keep them sealed. As you said, it was the pwr steer curcuit :)
 
Last edited:

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-10-20|:-

Today I finished the rear toe arms with some red paint and I cleaned of the stickers
from the cam bolts between the coats.
The stickers were not easy to remove :S

About the diesel sound in the movies in the last update is probably because of the
spark plug wire order. It started with the same order which you can see below. This
is changed now.

I also brought the correct hose for the bov, it was at home for some odd reason.

I'm having some problem with the oil plug not sealing correctly.
Brand new copper ring and I have scraped of the paint to get a metal on metal seal.
It still leaks.

I also installed the front left strut.



Pictures:

Cleaned the stickers of the front & rear cam bolts
31793370.jpg


Finished painting the rear toe arms
31793370.jpg


This order does not look right
31793372.jpg


Found the correct hose for the stock bov
31793373.jpg


Brand new copper ring and still leaks
31793374.jpg


Front left strut installed
31793375.jpg


31793376.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-10-21|:-

Today I changed the shifter bushings. I don't think that I should have removed
the old one with a knife, but it was stuck in there.
The new one was a bitch to install and I couldn't install it with the rubber ring
underneath. Is it supposed to be there with the new bushing?
Then I installed the shifter and the difference between the bushings are huge!
I could have sat there for hours just changing gear :)

There is also an image showing that I have changed the spark wire order,
and I have also followed the wires to see that none are wrongly marked.

I found the problem with the oil plug. There is a piece of thread missing :(
I don't have time to weld a new nut to the pan so I just used some fipg so now it's
leak free at least :)




Pictures:

Old and new shifter bushings
31793384.jpg


Is this needed with the new bushing?
31793385.jpg


Shifter installed
31793387.jpg


Correct spark plug order
31793386.jpg


Correct length hoses for the bov
31793388.jpg


The oil plug is now leak free
31793383.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-10-22|:-

Today I took care of the suspension arms.
I installed all the bushings in their arms and then I installed front left suspension.
I installed both the upper control arm and the lower ball joint to the hub and torqued
them before I installed that assembly onto the car.




Pictures:

First there were some arms without bushings
31793392.jpg


Then there were some bushings ready to go in
31793393.jpg


and in the end there were some completed arms
31793391.jpg


Ball joints installed to the front left hub
31793390.jpg


Front left suspension in place
31793419.jpg


31793420.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-10-23|:-

Today I installed the final piece in the brake system, a new pipe from the ABS unit
to the front right wheel house and from that a new brake hose.



Pictures:

A new brake line for front right brake
31793417.jpg


Brake hose installed
31793418.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-10-24|:-

Time to do something about the rear, so I rolled it with the same paint I
used inside the car and on all the other red parts that I have painted.

The roller was supposed to work with all kinds of paint but after a coat or two
it started sticking a bit to the car. So the finish is far from what I want it to be.
But then again this is only to protect my car from rust during the winter. So the putty
work is not completed.
I think it's possible to do the "rostoleum" roller painting thing with this paint, so
that is one option if I can't spray paint it when it's time for that.



Pictures:

right side
31793401.jpg


31793402.jpg


left side
31793403.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-10-27|:-

Today I installed the rear suspension arms and drive shafts.
I still need to torque the nuts and bolts.

Yesterday I picked up a set of stock rims with winter tires(studs) from a member on
a swedish supra forum. These will come in handy right away since one of the tires which
came with the car has a tiny hole and letting out air very slowly. I have not yet had
time to fix this. Also, since snow is coming this is perfect if I get a garage spot for
my supra and need to move it.



Pictures:

Rear suspension in place
31904405.jpg


31904406.jpg


A better pic of the right side after painting
31904408.jpg


...and the left side
31904407.jpg


A set of stock rims with winter tires
31904409.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-10-28|:-

Today I installed the brakes all around, but I still need to bleed them.
After that I put in the carpet and then I had to install the driver seat
aswell :)


Pictures:

Rear breaks
31904450.jpg


31904449.jpg


Front breaks
31904453.jpg


31904454.jpg


Carpet and the driver seat
31904451.jpg


Good night :)
31904455.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-10-29|:-

Today I installed the front swaybar and endlinks which marks the finish line
of the front suspension installation.



Pictures:

Front swaybar and endlinks installed
31904490.jpg


31904491.jpg


31904487.jpg


31904489.jpg
 

eraezer

Member
Nov 6, 2008
851
9
18
Stockholm, Sweden
-:|Update - 2010-10-30|:-

Today I installed the rear swaybar, endlinks and the targa bars
which like the previous update marks the finish line of the rear
suspension installation.



Pictures:

Rear suspension is complete
31904494.jpg


31904496.jpg


31904497.jpg


31904498.jpg


31904495.jpg


31904492.jpg