Engine rod knock/seized. Oil to blame?

[Zazzn]

I changed my oil with Pennzoil platinum and ever since I noticed my car acted like it had crank walk since it would dip in RPM when I pushed the clutch.

I thought it was funny but got side tracked with some other issues with the car like a fan problem which ended up overheating the car 2 times (on this oil).
(the overheat was on the highway due to one fan not running and the big 4" ic blocking air flow to the PWR rad)

Fast forward 2 weeks later, and I've now fixed the issues with the fans, took the car out to get a new 90degree elbow welded to the turbo instead of using a silicon coupler.

Get home hook up IC pipes again, go boosting 25-26 PSI get off the highway and hear a rod knock. Head home 3KM, and sizes just as I get home.

Strange thing is I drained 7 L of Pennzoil Platinum, chopped open the oil filter and of course there is metal sparkles in the oil.

It was 5w30 oil...

Here's the other strange thing, I ran this oil in my mk4 for about 1000KM and I happen to add an oil cooler to the mk4... When I saw the oil (same oil) it was shit colour brown and didn't look right, I chalked it up to being Fully SYNC but still didn't trust it so drained it out and put in regular 5w30 dino.

I switched form 10w30 to 5w30 after reading Jdubs oil link.

What do you guys think?

 

[NashMan]

i never run 5 30 in canada or at lest were i live 10 30 for me

and i droped penzoil long ago

i now run castrol

 

[Pernilongo]

maybe some of the metal got into the oil with IC piping. You said that you've been doing smth to IC pipes, was there cutting involved? probably there was some metal shavings left inside the pipes. As far as colour is concerned i ran 5-30 Pennzoil platinum and it was getting very very dark too, but the engine was very clean after it anyways. but i really dont think oil would cause problems that you are describing.

 

[Zazzn]

Ic pipes where already there and inplace for 2 years, just had a elbow welded on to the end of the turbo compressor housing.. that was taken off the car, washed welded, and washed and replaced..


Very very unlikely.

I wouldn't think it either, but 2 bad apples. something's gotta give!? I really don't know why I got a knock, and I'm not sure why the RPM was dropping when I clutched in... Almost like it had no viscosity and was waring the trust washers... (like crank walk) but I checked and saw no evidence of the pully moving in the front. So i chalked it up to maybe something else, then this.... I've never ONCE had rod knock on all the engines I've owned and this is the first time I've tried penz plat on two seprate 2jz's...

Nash, if you read about 5w30 vs 10w30 according to the refrence that jdub listed 5w is just the new 10w. it's just thinner at cold. Same at hot, so 5 should be better for any car.

 

[tlo86]

check oil for coolant? sometimes can only take two times to overheat to ruin a head but thats just one idea.. how much power are you running?

 

[NashMan]

Ic pipes where already there and inplace for 2 years, just had a elbow welded on to the end of the turbo compressor housing.. that was taken off the car, washed welded, and washed and replaced..


Very very unlikely.

I wouldn't think it either, but 2 bad apples. something's gotta give!? I really don't know why I got a knock, and I'm not sure why the RPM was dropping when I clutched in... Almost like it had no viscosity and was waring the trust washers... (like crank walk) but I checked and saw no evidence of the pully moving in the front. So i chalked it up to maybe something else, then this.... I've never ONCE had rod knock on all the engines I've owned and this is the first time I've tried penz plat on two seprate 2jz's...

Nash, if you read about 5w30 vs 10w30 according to the refrence that jdub listed 5w is just the new 10w. it's just thinner at cold. Same at hot, so 5 should be better for any car.

umm yea i know that but it never gets that cold out here sooo 10 works best for me

and i get better oil pressure at start up that's why i run 10 30

and worn/hi mileage motor i will run a 10 40


as for you engine i don't think it was the oil prob

1 there was not enough in there duh


2 engine was built loose like some of the race engine we build

other then that some thing els was at fault

 

[Zazzn]

check oil for coolant? sometimes can only take two times to overheat to ruin a head but thats just one idea.. how much power are you running?

Nope no oil in coolant, head is great still no over heating no power problems 145 PSI across the board with 264 cams .

umm yea i know that but it never gets that cold out here sooo 10 works best for me

and i get better oil pressure at start up that's why i run 10 30

and worn/hi mileage motor i will run a 10 40


as for you engine i don't think it was the oil prob

1 there was not enough in there duh


2 engine was built loose like some of the race engine we build

other then that some thing els was at fault

7 L drained out since the knocking started and subsequent problem.

Engine was stock aside form cams, so tolernaces should have been within spec.. I replaced the trust washers when i swapped in the engine but the originals where actually great shape and within spec.

 

[NashMan]

well this happened with sky line once but maybe one of the oil galleries is um mm clogged from lack of cleaning when rebuilt ? and slowly starved it's self

aka some shit is stuck some were


all in all take it apart and you will find out

 

[GrimJack]

Going to take some teardown to figure it out. Personally I'd be leaning towards a faulty oil pump, given that it lost a rod bearing AND seized. That's two different areas of the engine. Even if the bearing completely melted away, it shouldn't seize... that's the piston / rings welding themselves to the cylinder bore due to overheating or lack of oil. If there was no overheating... (EGTs reasonable? Nothing to do with coolant temps, really, just combustion temps) and you drained out the right amount of oil, then the only thing left is oil starvation.

 

[Zumtizzle]

oil not to blame eric.

time to do a taredown...

 

[Deeznuts]

hope everything turns out ok Please keep us updated

 

[Ryan_V]

You said the crank wasn't moving, but do you have a push or pull type clutch? You might not be able to see the crank move a credit card thickness either...which would be way out of spec.

Been there done this man. Dont wear yourself out.

 

[T701jz]

You definitely had the sign of crank walk and yes it will damage the rest of your bearings (rods and crank) if not caught in time. At most cases the clutch is to blame for the thrust washer to go bad at cold start. Defending on your set up the oil could also be the factor of your problem.

 

[Zazzn]

clutch is the dual diaphram 3200 LB so it could be 1000% form that, but I did disable the nu startso I dont see why it would be waring so much espeically since I replaced the thrust washers just before i put the engine in the car.

So. gay SO un happy.. TOronto supra meet this firday and this shit happens.

 

[OneJSupra]

Going to take some teardown to figure it out. Personally I'd be leaning towards a faulty oil pump, given that it lost a rod bearing AND seized. That's two different areas of the engine. Even if the bearing completely melted away, it shouldn't seize... that's the piston / rings welding themselves to the cylinder bore due to overheating or lack of oil. If there was no overheating... (EGTs reasonable? Nothing to do with coolant temps, really, just combustion temps) and you drained out the right amount of oil, then the only thing left is oil starvation.

What oil filter did you use? I agreed with oil starvation. Either the oil pump failed or the oil filter got clogged and oil was blocked going into to the engine.

 

[GrimJack]

Even if the filter clogs, it has a bypass that should open.

 

[NashMan]

crack open the motor all ready

playing the guessing game is stuiped

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Oil to blame? This is how witch hunts get started.

 

[OneJSupra]

Even if the filter clogs, it has a bypass that should open.

The bypass could fail.

 

[Zazzn]

oil filter was fine, infact wasn't cloged at all...