-dangit, i posted this in build up by accident. Can someone move it to general. -
Well, I had heard the horror stories about how bad ebay BOVs are, but wanted to see if it was true. Like most of the mindless mantras chanted in the MK3 community, this proved to be yet another one that was false. People just talking without knowing what they are saying.
Here’s everything that came with it, in this picture I already have the valve’s main cover off. Came with Ts, a flanged pipe, spare bolts, allen keys, and an extra weld flange.
Here’s a close up of the front part of the valve with the main cover off.
Here I took off the rear cover, housing the spring and the rear valve.
With the rear valve removed I checked the main shaft. Supposedly these are rough as hell. That wasn’t the case at all. Even before I removed the rear valve, shaft play was nice and smooth. Before putting the rear valve back on, I hit the shaft with some graphite lube and work it in. There was not a whole lot of difference, so that just further proved to me the shaft was perfectly fine.
Also notice the worst “casting mark” can be seen in this picture. It’s on the mounting flange. As in, non-critical. Not even an issue.
Mounting the rear flange back up, I put a bit of grease on the flange to help prevent binding. Also put a bit on the two ends of the spring as well. This is something I would do on a genuine HKS as well, it’s not because I saw some flaw in the knock off.
I saw ZERO problems with this ebay copy. I will have no qualms about running this on my setup.
Actually, the only “issue” was have having to drive the vacuum nipple into the rear housing. But that’s not a real issue…
Well, I had heard the horror stories about how bad ebay BOVs are, but wanted to see if it was true. Like most of the mindless mantras chanted in the MK3 community, this proved to be yet another one that was false. People just talking without knowing what they are saying.
Here’s everything that came with it, in this picture I already have the valve’s main cover off. Came with Ts, a flanged pipe, spare bolts, allen keys, and an extra weld flange.

Here’s a close up of the front part of the valve with the main cover off.

Here I took off the rear cover, housing the spring and the rear valve.

With the rear valve removed I checked the main shaft. Supposedly these are rough as hell. That wasn’t the case at all. Even before I removed the rear valve, shaft play was nice and smooth. Before putting the rear valve back on, I hit the shaft with some graphite lube and work it in. There was not a whole lot of difference, so that just further proved to me the shaft was perfectly fine.
Also notice the worst “casting mark” can be seen in this picture. It’s on the mounting flange. As in, non-critical. Not even an issue.

Mounting the rear flange back up, I put a bit of grease on the flange to help prevent binding. Also put a bit on the two ends of the spring as well. This is something I would do on a genuine HKS as well, it’s not because I saw some flaw in the knock off.

I saw ZERO problems with this ebay copy. I will have no qualms about running this on my setup.
Actually, the only “issue” was have having to drive the vacuum nipple into the rear housing. But that’s not a real issue…