DIY: R-12 to R-134a Conversion (How To)
- Thread starter JDMMA70
- Start date
Not too bad, if I can do 2+ months of work I can handle a day lol
Just remembered I don't have a 24 or 27mm wrench, time to buy some new wrenches with socket ends.
Just remembered I don't have a 24 or 27mm wrench, time to buy some new wrenches with socket ends.
Would you be able to use a parallel flow condenser with R12 without reducing performance of the system?
I read somewhere that the speed of the coolant flow (the through put) could be reduced with a parallel flow condenser which apparently shouldn't be good with R12.
I read somewhere that the speed of the coolant flow (the through put) could be reduced with a parallel flow condenser which apparently shouldn't be good with R12.
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bluebullet89;1826354 said:
Where In the world did u manage to find the R-12? I'd like to completely swap everything over but it's not within my reach at the moment.
I really want to have this no AC problem fixed. This (ma70) at the moment is my only source of transportation and trust me I don't want my daughter and wife riding around with no AC this summer. I'm more than willing to take on the task, but honestly it's a bit of a daunting task especially since I have never messed with an AC system before. I have a buddy that is willing to let me borrow any and all tools or the task. I think the only piece of equipment that he might not have is a compressor.
Kristian_Wraae;1929612 said:
PF condenser will work well with R12 refrigerant and improve performance. I have a PF condenser from American Condensers plus a large Spal pusher fan in my Supra running R12 and it has been working well.
http://www.ackits.com/c/Parallel/Parallel+Flow+Condensers+-+Aluminum.html
"When converting from R12 to R134a using a Parallel Flow model condenser greatly improves performance. Parallel Flow condensers can also be used with R12 and alternative refrigerants."
JDMMA70;1929685 said:
Is R12 better? (aside from the environmental part) if so I would gladly just stick with what my system is designed for if it makes it work better. Although I've never had AC in a Supra so anything is better at this point lol
I remind those new to MVAC it requires tools and skills not possessed by the typical backyard mechanic. At worse you can be hurt but more likely you'll end up with a system that works only to require extensive (read expensive) and near complete rebuilding within a season or two. The only way to avoid this is by thoroughly understanding everything involved and doing it right the first time. I can't stress that last part enough. If you don't have it 100% down pat the job will come back to bite you and it won't be cheap.
CyFi6;1929784 said:
It is just that I found this on a Mercedes forum:
So in theory smaller room for liquid and lower flow speed and maybe higher pressure.
i hope this is the proper place to ask this but how much is different from the pre89 and 89+ cooling systems?
i know the cooling unit is but will that fit in with the others? I want to be able to swap the 89+ setup into my 88 i will post pictures of my system
Video ended up being easier
http://youtu.be/VstzO_k1lNc
i know the cooling unit is but will that fit in with the others? I want to be able to swap the 89+ setup into my 88 i will post pictures of my system
Video ended up being easier
http://youtu.be/VstzO_k1lNc
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Just the evap, and the lines for the block style txv. CyFi6 swapped in an entire 89+ system including the 88+ lines that move the drier over to behind the overflow. Since youre there at that point, id suggest flushing your lines, and resealing. The 89+ evap units are more efficient, from my experience. The evap boxes are the same and should be.
You need the 89+ evap, evap plastic box, TXV and short line assembly that bolts to the TXV, then it will bolt right in. The evap plastic box is different for 89+ on the inside but bolts up to all the pre89 stuff around it.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...nal-attempt-at-ice-cold-AC...Lots-of-pictures
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...nal-attempt-at-ice-cold-AC...Lots-of-pictures
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
Going to add a little kudos to this thread Derek, aka JDMMA70.
I drove my 88 Supra down from Fort Worth to Katy, Tx with parts in the hatch so that he could repair my a/c. My expansion valve had taken a dump and the compressor seemed to be dying a slow death. So a brand new compressor, drier, and expansion valve were purchased, along with an o-ring kit, new and better fittings and refrigerant. I had a shop evacuate the system for me the day before at no charge to me. The car already had a parallel flow condenser courtesy of the previous owner Emilio Rescigno.
Anybody hesitant to switch over to R134a don't be. As you can see in the pic below it was blowing plenty cold.
I drove my 88 Supra down from Fort Worth to Katy, Tx with parts in the hatch so that he could repair my a/c. My expansion valve had taken a dump and the compressor seemed to be dying a slow death. So a brand new compressor, drier, and expansion valve were purchased, along with an o-ring kit, new and better fittings and refrigerant. I had a shop evacuate the system for me the day before at no charge to me. The car already had a parallel flow condenser courtesy of the previous owner Emilio Rescigno.
Anybody hesitant to switch over to R134a don't be. As you can see in the pic below it was blowing plenty cold.
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Many thanks for this writing, years after it is still usefull..
I was looking for some equipment to do that, and find this kit:
www.ebay.com/itm/261595707011
So I was thinking about differences between R-12, R-134A, and Duracool 12A, and came to this post (and the last one of the thread): http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8...4a-retrofit-what-should-i-do.html#post2877730
So, should I convert to R-134A, to 12A, or keep R-12?
I was looking for some equipment to do that, and find this kit:
www.ebay.com/itm/261595707011
So I was thinking about differences between R-12, R-134A, and Duracool 12A, and came to this post (and the last one of the thread): http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8...4a-retrofit-what-should-i-do.html#post2877730
So, should I convert to R-134A, to 12A, or keep R-12?