Crazy Power Steering PROBLEM

dumbo

Supramania Contributor
Jul 16, 2008
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Albera, Too Far North
Poodles;1252983 said:
You should have SOME foaming or there is something wrong....

Do it exactly as the TSRM states.

I bet the hose from the res. (fuck it, I'm shortening that word) to the pump has a kink in it (as is common if the hose has been replaced). Can also be a kinked hardline...

LOL::hah::


Yup thats my guess too,

Is it a line designed for oil Grimsta?
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
9,439
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
Grimsta;1252969 said:
I have that diagram, it indicates the wires from the dizzy going to the connector and ECU all being the same color when the wires coming out of the dizzy BEFORE the connector ARENT the same colors. I got plenty of turbo cars here, but thats different, how am I supposed to reference something w/o a reference?lol

For someone with an understanding of how the ignition system works two minutes using a meter would have provided the answer. Or a scope. What kind of shop doesn't have a hand held scope these days?

I dunno guy. When working on someone's vehicle for free the sort of flailing around you're doing is one thing but charging for it is another. It's no wonder automotive repair has such a bad rep among the public...
 

Grimsta

Supramania Contributor
May 30, 2007
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Santa Rosa, Ca.
dumbo;1252978 said:
Smaller pulley= more RPM=More flow

Got Boost-A leak in the pressure side wont cause aeration, It will just leak.

grimsta-Did you check the suction line? Since you said theres no aeration/foaming, i wouldn't think theres a hole in it, but a restriction maybe, collapsing on the inside, did you check the flow on the larger suction line too? If its a nice constant whine your pump is more than likely cavitating.

For everyone whos got this problem-How cold is it where you are???? Cold wheather will cause that whine(cavitation) but there aint much you can do about it, and it should go away after a few minutes.
Nope, all the flow is quite well. Its not very cold around here, not warm like sunny SoCal, but not too cold either.

Poodles;1252983 said:
You should have SOME foaming or there is something wrong....

Do it exactly as the TSRM states.

I bet the hose from the res. (fuck it, I'm shortening that word) to the pump has a kink in it (as is common if the hose has been replaced). Can also be a kinked hardline...
Nope, no kinks. I think i've mentioned this a couple times

jetjock;1253044 said:
For someone with an understanding of how the ignition system works two minutes using a meter would have provided the answer. Or a scope. What kind of shop doesn't have a hand held scope these days?

I dunno guy. When working on someone's vehicle for free the sort of flailing around you're doing is one thing but charging for it is another. It's no wonder automotive repair has such a bad rep among the public...
If call "flailing around" having performed every test that is performable and checking and rechecking several times until everything is indicative of proper function. And even hooked the gauges amongst the hydraulic lines to read the pressure then yes, I guess I'm "flailing around" having exhausted all diagnostic procedures with still no result. It is possible that the used parts are no good, but I find it likely considering they were working in the vehicle they came from. Pretty easy to judge when your across the table online and havent spent 3 days of repetitive constant testing on the car. Plus I dont hear you chiming in with any charms of wisdom, just condescention. I wasnt being sarcastic earlier when I said "any other geniuses" on here. I really meant it, because with all the different issues going on around here and busy busy hustle and bustle I was wondering if anyone may bring up something I may have overlooked, but not so far. The difference with some others on here is being to prideful to ask when they ecounter something bewildering so they waste days or weeks doing things over and over until finally something clicks or charging the customer so much for taking shots in the dark. Instead of being prideful I'm willing to open up and confer with some other experts that may be able to shed some light.
 

dumbo

Supramania Contributor
Jul 16, 2008
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Albera, Too Far North
Well from where I'm sitting all I can logically say is make sure that the suction line is FREE FlOWING, I would imagine anything more than 4"-5"s of Mercury and that pump would cavitate. And of course you have the proper belt and belt tension. Good Luck dude.
 

paulmicin

New Member
Apr 7, 2008
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Norwalk, Ca
How long did you drive it on the new pump, rack, and high pressure lines? When I changed these on mine, it started power assisting after the first few miles.
 

funky_monkey58

Closing in on 200+MPH
Apr 3, 2006
1,307
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36
St.cloud MN
paulmicin;1253275 said:
How long did you drive it on the new pump, rack, and high pressure lines? When I changed these on mine, it started power assisting after the first few miles.

Among this guy I would jack up the front and turn the wheels a bunch of times to move fluid through the rack. From what I have read you might not have done this?
 

Zumtizzle

Can't Wait to Be King.
Oct 21, 2006
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Sac-Town, NorCal
Use this 95 Supra Powersteering bleeding procedure.

1. Jack up and support front end.
2. With the motor off, turn the steering wheel SLOWLY one direction full lock then the other.
3. Repeat for a good 5 mins, and take care and go SLOWLY.
4. Lower Vehicle.
5. Start motor and idle motor and turn lock one direction and hold it there for 2-3 seconds, then turn full lock other direction and hold for 2-3 seconds.
6. Repeat several times.
7. Stop motor, and check for foaming, and level.
8. If foaming jack front end and repeat 1-6.
9. If still foaming after the second run check for leaks.

Good luck.
-Sumeet
 

4U2QUIK

1UZFE SWAP DUDE!!!
Zumtizzle;1253300 said:
Use this 95 Supra Powersteering bleeding procedure.

1. Jack up and support front end.
2. With the motor off, turn the steering wheel SLOWLY one direction full lock then the other.
3. Repeat for a good 5 mins, and take care and go SLOWLY.
4. Lower Vehicle.
5. Start motor and idle motor and turn lock one direction and hold it there for 2-3 seconds, then turn full lock other direction and hold for 2-3 seconds.
6. Repeat several times.
7. Stop motor, and check for foaming, and level.
8. If foaming jack front end and repeat 1-6.
9. If still foaming after the second run check for leaks.

Good luck.
-Sumeet
did that multiple times. no help for me.

BlackMKIII;1253326 said:
It's in the liiiiiiiiines. Trust me, I had the same problem once on an 89 with PPS. Replace all the lines. Just do it. DO IT.
I replaced all of my lines and i still have the same problem as grimsta.
 

Grimsta

Supramania Contributor
May 30, 2007
1,081
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Santa Rosa, Ca.
Zumtizzle;1253300 said:
Use this 95 Supra Powersteering bleeding procedure.

1. Jack up and support front end.
2. With the motor off, turn the steering wheel SLOWLY one direction full lock then the other.
3. Repeat for a good 5 mins, and take care and go SLOWLY.
4. Lower Vehicle.
5. Start motor and idle motor and turn lock one direction and hold it there for 2-3 seconds, then turn full lock other direction and hold for 2-3 seconds.
6. Repeat several times.
7. Stop motor, and check for foaming, and level.
8. If foaming jack front end and repeat 1-6.
9. If still foaming after the second run check for leaks.

Good luck.
-Sumeet
Ha ha, yeah I know, I've done that several times already. That sounds pretty much like the MKIII procedure. Even driven it for awhile because sometimes its takes actual driving to get all the air out but still absolutely nothing

BlackMKIII;1253326 said:
It's in the liiiiiiiiines. Trust me, I had the same problem once on an 89 with PPS. Replace all the lines. Just do it. DO IT.
Wassup Alex! So you're still gettin on here once in awhile huh? Funny thing, I did replace the lines in this sense, the used rack I took out of my parts car I put in with all its lines. Now the parts car had no leaks at all, it was very clean underneath as well, so I know those lines arent leaking as well.

Back to you Dumbo, yes of course all the hoses are hydraulic oil line and the hose is pretty much completely straight, not kinked. I'm almost leaning putting a brand new pump in it, but want to rule everything else absolutely out. I dont throw parts at cars to fix them
 

suprahero

naughty by nature
Staff member
Aug 26, 2005
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Roll Tide
I drained mine today and cleaned out the screen as well as I could, installed new fluid and nothing seems to help. I tried to pinch off one of the lines and it busted a hole in my line so the pump is working fine. The only thing I can guess is that the remanufactured rack that I bought is fubar'd.
 

dumbo

Supramania Contributor
Jul 16, 2008
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Albera, Too Far North
Grimsta;1253473 said:
Ha ha, yeah I know, I've done that several times already. That sounds pretty much like the MKIII procedure. Even driven it for awhile because sometimes its takes actual driving to get all the air out but still absolutely nothing


Wassup Alex! So you're still gettin on here once in awhile huh? Funny thing, I did replace the lines in this sense, the used rack I took out of my parts car I put in with all its lines. Now the parts car had no leaks at all, it was very clean underneath as well, so I know those lines arent leaking as well.

Back to you Dumbo, yes of course all the hoses are hydraulic oil line and the hose is pretty much completely straight, not kinked. I'm almost leaning putting a brand new pump in it, but want to rule everything else absolutely out. I dont throw parts at cars to fix them


Good man thats just wasting money. You said you hooked up a gauge to pressure side? what were the results? suction side?

One last thing, and its probably a long shot. You were mentioning a smaller pulley for the PPS. Is the pump the same? Because pumps have a max rpm so the vacum in the suction line doesn't get to high(among other things). Maybe try puting a couple PSI in the resivoir to food the pump inlet but if your certain that line is good then it shoudn't be needed. Dont know man Good Luck.
 

nightmare

New Member
Sep 19, 2008
38
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Southern Indiana
I see what IJ is asking. I had to fix my mother in-laws cadillac. The pump was squealing and she had a hose pop off. I hooked it all up then it poped the line off at the aux cooler. I took off the lower under-body skirt and walla! There was a filter.(just like a fuel filter). Pulled it off and it looked like it imploded itself on the inside. I still had to replace the pump also. But the filter being clogged will really cause some weird issues. Before i changed it... The car wouldn't even turn! Until it popped off a line(lol!). But I believe an inline filter is worthwhile if you get it fixed. Whatever destroyed the filter.... saved the rack. But this only applies if your using a filter
 

suprahero

naughty by nature
Staff member
Aug 26, 2005
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Roll Tide
IJ.;1253500 said:
Do any of you guys with issues run a filter?

Mine is set up the way Toyota designed it so I dont' have one. I'm so used to my car driving like this that it doesn't even bother me unless I get in Vonda's and drive it a while and I realize the difference..........:aigo:
 

Grimsta

Supramania Contributor
May 30, 2007
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Santa Rosa, Ca.
SOLUTION

To all my homies out there suffering the same problem, it was IJ's favorite word, the RESERVOIR.

I had cleaned the old one until all of the gunk and crap was clear out of it but there was still something wrong with it. All the fluid inside it would drain out the bottom rapidly and the return wasn't clogged either. I put another reservoir in skeptically as it actually kind of looked dirtier inside, but I cleaned it out as well and presto! POWER STEERING.

So apparantly if you've put in countless pumps, racks, cleaned your reservoir and your problem still persists. PUT A NEW RESERVOIR IN