As Requested: MaftPro Install writeup

IamWedge

New Member
May 16, 2010
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Minnesota
Ive also got the Maft Pro Complete setup. I too agree that the wiring is confusing for the grounds.
So heres my Question.
The Maft Pro's 10 pin wire harness. The Black wire is connected to E1 on the ECU. As for the other grounds.... I already know that the LC-1's blue and white wire are going to the same ground. Also connect the Purple from the 10 pin harness.
So, once blue, white and purple are together.... should they also be connected to E1? Or should they be mounted to their own grounding source?
NOTE... I connected all the grounds to E1

Before anyone gets excited.... Id check on full throttle... but it would appear that their site is down at the moment. (still down hours later)
 
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turbobob

New Member
Aug 15, 2005
196
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0
Near Detroit
IamWedge;1596970 said:
Ive also got the Maft Pro Complete setup. I too agree that the wiring is confusing for the grounds.
So heres my Question.
The Maft Pro's 10 pin wire harness. The Black wire is connected to E1 on the ECU. As for the other grounds.... I already know that the LC-1's blue and white wire are going to the same ground. Also connect the Purple from the 10 pin harness.
So, once blue, white and purple are together.... should they also be connected to E1? Or should they be mounted to their own grounding source?
NOTE... I connected all the grounds to E1

Before anyone gets excited.... Id check on full throttle... but it would appear that their site is down at the moment. (still down hours later)

The wideband needs a good ground, the engine is the best place for it. Body grounds are not a good place to ground anything. So the white and blue go there. The Purple wire from the pro goes here as it is a ground "sensing" wire and needs to connect to the wideband ground for best accuracy.

The Pro black wire should be connected to the ECM ground. You can ground it to the engine also if you want.

But, you can connect All of them to E1, it should work fine that way. Thats actually how mine is installed (in my Buick)......

Bob
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
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Phoenix
www.google.com
Just wanted to clear a couple things up, figured these questions could help others too.

1. If I want to stick with the AFM and not use the speed density, how does the wiring differ? Do i still snip the KS wire?

2. When using a serial-to-usb adapter to connect the MaftPro to a computer, are there any known incompatible adapters? I know things like this can be picky about usb/serial adapters.

3. Instead of cutting the KS wire when running speed density, wouldn't it serve the same purpose to simply unplug the stock AFM? That way if you want to go back to stock computer, all you would have to do is plug the AFM back in and disconnect the MaftPro.

4. For pre-89 ecu, am I correct in saying that the HAC wire must be tapped into, and then the HAC sensor must be unplugged like it says in the diagram?

5. Can I use any wideband controller that has a datalogging output, or must it be one in the list located in the manual? If i can use any, how do i set up for that?

6. If no wideband is connected, must the purple wire still be grounded? Or are the wideband wires just left disconnected from anything?

Thank you for your continued support, everyone.
 
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turbobob

New Member
Aug 15, 2005
196
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0
Near Detroit
CyFi6;1650095 said:
Just wanted to clear a couple things up, figured these questions could help others too.

1. If I want to stick with the AFM and not use the speed density, how does the wiring differ? Do i still snip the KS wire?

2. When using a serial-to-usb adapter to connect the MaftPro to a computer, are there any known incompatible adapters? I know things like this can be picky about usb/serial adapters.

3. Instead of cutting the KS wire when running speed density, wouldn't it serve the same purpose to simply unplug the stock AFM? That way if you want to go back to stock computer, all you would have to do is plug the AFM back in and disconnect the MaftPro.

4. For pre-89 ecu, am I correct in saying that the HAC wire must be tapped into, and then the HAC sensor must be unplugged like it says in the diagram?

5. Can I use any wideband controller that has a datalogging output, or must it be one in the list located in the manual? If i can use any, how do i set up for that?

6. If no wideband is connected, must the purple wire still be grounded? Or are the wideband wires just left disconnected from anything?

Thank you for your continued support, everyone.

If you want to use the AFM, then you have to snip the KS wire, so that the AFM signal goes to the pro, and the pro's output goes to the ECU. For speed density, you can just tap the KS wire and unplug the AFM.

Belkin adapters have had issues with reprogramming the unit, but log ok. I use the Sewell brand adapters with great success.

If you will be driving on flat land, then you don't need to disable the HAC. The tune will shift slightly with the weather, but not much.

If the wideband you want to use is not on the list, then if its output is configurable, or matches one of the listed ones, then it will work.

If no wideband is installed, you can leave the wires unhooked, or connect to the stock O2 sensor so you can log its activity.

Bob
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
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Thanks so much for the fast reply turbobob! One last question. When you say if the wideband output is configurable, what do you mean exactly. Is there any way for me to know if the output style matches any of the pre programmed units (what exactly needs to match/how do i find out what type mine is?). Im looking at a prosport unit and it says it has a "0-5v output for data logging".
Thanks
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
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Phoenix
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Looking at the instructions

AFR Source: Select scaling of wideband input
None Zeitronix ZT2
LC1 Dynojet
LM1 AEM interface
5v AEM Gauge DIY-WB
TechEdge 2B0


What exactly is DIY- Wideband? Does that mean i can configure a wideband that is not listed? Thanks again.
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
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Phoenix
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NOTE these connections are for 89+, but wideband connections remain the same
p1695895_1.jpg


then look in your AEM manual to figure out which wire is the analog 0-5v output wire
 

enjoi.this

Formerly ChrisC
Aug 18, 2008
674
0
16
Kelowna, BC
This was all the info I could find on the CEL fixes for when maft-pro is installed. Its only diagrams and I dont really understand what they mean so if someone could explain how to solder in the resistors that would be great!!

GTE-resistors-sm.jpg


and I totally dont understand what this is or what its for lol
voltage-divider.gif
 

JimR

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
304
0
0
Canada
You need a set voltage for the HAC sensor input. The voltage divider circuit is what lets you accomplish that. Take the numbers from the diagram, put them into the formula, and you will see the resulting voltage (~3.4v). The HAC wire goes off to your HAC input on your ECU (89+) or to your external HAC unit (before 89). I assume you can handle the circuit on the right because it has the ECU pins labelled for you. If not, read up on the TSRM's EFI troubleshooting section and study the pin diagrams. You can also find a suitable +5 source to use this way. You want something that comes on when the ignition is turned on.
 

terrenceLP

New Member
Mar 22, 2011
81
0
0
Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
JimR is spot on, basically your using resistors to control down the voltage, and since the sensor system on most cars read off of Voltage changes and variations. You are in a sense setting up a Static value for the ECU...

My set up on my 87 is the HAC resistor mod and V Out 2 set to 2.5v, since I live in a extremely hot area I wanted to be able to set this value depending on the weather. The above hack is for setting the ecu to think it's 68F out side, but here it gets into the 110 and the next range for the ecu is 104f. So on hot days I set to the higher temp.

BUt back to the OP of the last page, what is DIY WB in the MAFT PRO and how can one use it?

I'm still getting AEM UEGO wideband readings are off, tried White 5v and black ground, tried white 5v and the Brown - Still off in the Maft Pro. Any ideas before I sell it and get an LC-1?