Arp headstud free spinning

Turbo Habanero

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So today I was finishing up a 7mgte head gasket job.

I used a tap to clean all the threads in the block and put in the head studs using a key nice and tight with the arp lube. Placed all the washers in place and continued to torque them down in order per tsrm.

Got them torqued to 75ft lbs with no problems. Continued to torque them to 90ft lbs and on the first one about half a turn into it I heard a crack and now the stud itself free spins. Starts to get tight but then loosens up.

I took the stud back out amd the threads on the stud and nut seem fine.

So did I strip the block?

Head also looks fine and not cracked.
 

hvyman

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The studs are only supposed to be hand tight in the block.

sounds like block cracked. I would pull the head and verify.
 

Turbo Habanero

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hvyman;1977364 said:
The studs are only supposed to be hand tight in the block.

sounds like block cracked. I would pull the head and verify.

Well they were as tight but not torqued I was only using a allan key.

I'm pulling the head this coming afternoon.
 

Turbo Habanero

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GrimJack;1977366 said:
Where did you use the lube, and what kind?

Also, how accurate is your wrench?

It's a Craftsmen Torque wrench relatively new.

I used the supplied ARP Lube and applied it to the threads that go into the block like ARP says to do.
 

Turbo Habanero

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BoostMonger;1977373 said:
I thought I was cursed when a task takes 3 times longer than it should, dont take this the wrong way but you make me feel better.

I always take my time and triple check shit even if I'm sure. It really sucks if this block is trashed.
 

Turbo Habanero

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Well it's not cracked I tried to re tap it and put the head back on but can't even go past 20ft lbs


p1977541_1.jpg


p1977541_2.jpg
 

IndigoMKII

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the more you try, the worse it'll get. you pulled the threads out basically. was there metal shards on the stud when you pulled it out? did you torque the stud to the block using an allen head socket or torque the nut on the stud?
 

atmperformance

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Turbo Habanero;1977371 said:
It's a Craftsmen Torque wrench relatively new.
Well there's your first mistake, china torque wrench internals.
Turbo Habanero;1977371 said:
I used the supplied ARP Lube and applied it to the threads that go into the block like ARP says to do.
I find no need to lube the stud that goes into the block I only use it on the top of the stud where you're torquing on the nut.

you should also be torquing at 30/60/90 I'm not sure how you followed directions and torqued to 75.
 
Last edited:

GrimJack

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atmperformance;1977564 said:
Well there's your first mistake, china torque wrench internals.

I find no need to lube the stud that goes into the block I only use it on the top of the stud where you're torquing on the nut.

you should also be torquing at 30/60/90 I'm not sure how you followed directions and torqued to 75.
QFT. Lube goes on the threads on the top, and between the nut and the washer.

Otherwise, with no lube on there, 90 ft/lbs is going to be... well, a *LOT* more than 90, anyway.
 

Nick M

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Why ARP studs with the deck like that? An OEM or Fel Pro composite with factory bolts at 75 would be just fine. I realize you already bought the studs.
 

Turbo Habanero

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Yes it's just a oem gasket and headstuds really are not that much more expensive. Surface is surprisingly smooth. I'll prob take some acid tone to it after I heli coil the block.