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thanks dirgle... so if the engine isnt knocking there is no signal sent to the ecu? i didnt think my KS was bad, but i had a bad connection... ---------- Post added at 01:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 AM ---------- i just think that if your going to take the effort to say...

again. this post is not necessary it has nothing to do with my original post, you are now just asserting your presumed authority of king dickweed. if you dont have anything to say on the topic then go away. you obviously dont have any knowledge worthwhile to me, if you do then keep it to...

now i can see his post being usefull if he provided me with some of the useful information that was provided to me by, gennro and ben1984j... that is useful information, just saying that isnt my problem doesnt help me, as that sounds to me like its only your uneducated opinion.. which seems to...

jetjock, if you have some useful input to add then share it.. otherwise shut up. i hate people like you... you didnt even read my post, who said i messed with the knock sensor, i was merely inquiring about it.. i know the timing is retarded (like jet) when the knock sensor is no good... and...

isnt there a connector in the diag box that is for the knock sensor?

i always thought the coolant light looked more like a ancient roman building....

i need some help. i am wondering if anyone has ever expirienced a failed/failing knock sensor on a 7MGE? what are your symptoms? anyone know how to definitively diagnose a knock sensor?? (nothing in the tsrm) i have this problem where the engine kinda boggs down in mid to upper RPM...

asking if there were a light on the ecu seems to be a reasonable question than asking if there were a screw on it.... thats just strange.. first, with 116 posts u should be familiar with the search button and or the tsrm... just search tsrm and all you need to know is in there

the linkage tend to wear out... -NOTE- the bracket thats behind the TB where the throttle cable and cruise connect on a wheel that, in turn, pushes the rod to the actual TB... that wheel has nylon bushings that wear out and cause the lower piece to rub on the bracket itself.... i am sorry i dont...

that would be great, thanks!

try some thick ass oil maybe 20w 50 see if you get a higher reading... after you test the gauge and sender

is it a used engine? thats usualy an indicator of bad b earings

cork gaskets are ok to use, but you have to do it right. RTV should not be used with a cork gasket. and the 9 ft lb spec is for a toyota gasket which isnt cork... and since cork is so soft it smooshes out, which you've seen. if its smooshed, its too late the gasket is no good.. but for future...

yea i moved the harness thats bolted up more towards the front (next to the tower) and bolted it where you bolted yourcoil.. so i could have the coil closer to the distributor cap.... also i find worth noting that the aftermarket cap and rotor for this car are not built correctly, and im sure...

the oem coil has 3 connectors, but the harness only has 2 wires... not sure what the extra connector on the coil is for... maybe another application or tach signal? no idea. upon further thought i am not sure if i would recommend the accel coil... as the primary coil resistance is higher...

so heres some pics... just try an over look the spade connectors and the visible wires... they will be soldered and hidden in the near future http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv254/sandineyez/IMG_0199.jpg http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv254/sandineyez/IMG_0204.jpg...

i am going to post pics when i get home... i am at work and the damn firewall here is bullshit! and i've certainly seen many posts where guys get flamed for doing things, that are seen as unnecessary

i just did so and i am please it came out so nice... and was very easy it started out b/c i thought i had a bad/weak coil... so i grabbed a universal accel coil off the shelf and quickly wired it up to see if it worked and was better than the oem... and after the test drive it was noticeably...

if your wheel is changing locations when you hit a hard turn you have other issues, like your p/s rack bushings are worn and shifting... or you have bad control arm busings, causing them to shift under severe load.. definitely have to start with faulty suspension components before any alignment...

yea, ur right, good analogy. however i figured for 32 dollars for the pair it was worth a try rears 245 45 16 http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv254/sandineyez/IMG_0169.jpg front 225 50 16 http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv254/sandineyez/IMG_0170.jpg it doesnt seem to be too bad...