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lower ctrl arm bushings are also a problem... i just had to replace both lower control arms b/c the factory bushings arent available aftermarket. easy way to check when driving is to tap the brakes, rapidly on and off when rolling.. if you feel clunking then replace them... 150 a side... so...

the downpipe looks awefully flose to the floorboard... did you account for engine movement and all that heat?

a junk yark is probably the obvious answer... make a new set is the next obvious...

so the problem was definitely in the roller part of the throttle linkage... the roller that drives the actual butterfly linkage... not the horizontal wheel where the cruise connects to.. the roller was gunked up with what looked to be dried up anti-seize.. cleaned it up and it made the...

i think you're right. i noticed the butterfly moves freely when moved at the linkage but it slightly binds at the horizontal wheel where the cruise connects to... there is a bit of play in that wheel and i have tried lubing it to no avail... do i just replace it? or maybe theres another way?

thanks for the responses... i guess i should mention the problem i am having. when cruising at any given speed... when i let up on the throttle i feel a harsh buck when i hit the throttle... i have to move the pedal extremely slow/ soft to get a smooth transition from zero throttle to any...

can anyone tell me what the symptoms of a bad tps would be? like what is the purpose of the idle switch? what would it cause if it were bad?

not to sound like a dick, but how can you check any electrical system without a multimeter/power probe or test light? furthermore how do you know theres no power to the fuse? without a test light? and for reference, the dimmer switch is involved in the circuit.. i have had a bad...

are those metal shavings on the tip of your screwdriver? wouldnt that the the logical indicator of a fatal transmission failure? if you were really only going 55... a shift into 2nd would put you somewhere around 6-7k.... not 9k and if by chance you did get it up to 9k.. your going to be...

90 percent sure its vsv1 i glanced at the wiring diagram the other day in the tsrm

so i am going to say its a bad solenoid.... even though it works now... i have signal and voltage at the solenoid... but had no vacuum at the actuator before... i am assuming that knocking around the solenoid a bit happened to free it up... good for now... but annoying.. thanks for...

all the vac lines are correct... i managed to pull the reservoir.. that was a nightmare... bench tested the solenoid... it works.... so i go back to the connector, now that its accessible.. i have a 12 v feed... so now im going to check for a ground signal... is there anything that...

look in the tsrm... the link is in the maintenance faq sticky it has what you need... i promise

on a side note... i couldnt find anything in the tsrm for the acis... wtf?

so after looking into it more.... i determined that that acis is not working correctly.. as in there is no vacuum applied to the actuator when the car is driven... so far, i know i have vacuum going to the vacuum reservoir .. and no vacuum coming from the solenoid so i either have a...

has any one expirienced anything like this? i have within the last 10k miles replaced the wires, cap and rotor, plugs 1k ago with toyota plugs, and coolant temp sensor i have in addition checked the VAF meter, voltage sweep is smooth and steady... the air intake temp sensor is accurate as...

i always wanted to know if you could make a 32. bmw itb work... did you make your own flange? what about sensors? you gonna run on mge electronics? pretty awesome man

sorry i didnt read the whole thread.. dont have time right now... but thought this was worth mentioning.. i also cant stand the noise inside.. and determined that on the highway most of the sound was from the wheel wells... i had gone to home depot.. and picked up some tar/foil based...

i am curious. what did you use to torque the bolts with ? 1/4 drive or 3/8 i ask.. b/c 14 ft lbs isnt very much at all and using a 3/8 ratchet, going by feel is going to have bad results... did you use a 1/4" torque wrench?

the best way to mount a mirror button on the windshield is to A. prep the windshield B. apply glue C. press against windshield D.(most important) use a telescoping prop-rod and use the end of arm rest as a base... and let it sit for an hour.... that sucker will be on for life.... well...