not to mention... you need to be sure that no coolant got into the oil pan when you removed the head... as it would be pretty difficult to get that water 100 percent out of the pan, without removing the pan...
dude listen... did you read what ive been saying???
this part is CRITICAL that you do it right... as if you get gasket material into the cylinders, you wil have wasted your time as your engine will then burn oil....
and when you said clean the block... i thought you meant.. the "block"...
if you pull on one end of the cable and the other end moves too, then i would say its... OK
as far as removing it, i have no idea... i have a standard..
good luck in your quest
are you pulling the engine? or not?
if you pull it... you best bet is to send it to a machine shop... they will dunk tank it before they hone it and deck it...
but if ur keeping it in there... just use degreaser and some elbow grease
ahh good point... maybe i can find some lead to line my floor pan... with slight access points so the shards can convienently remove my "butt nuggets"
thanks i will take that under advisement.. didnt really consider that scenerio..
has that happened? or speculation?
if you use the old fan wires... meaning the small fan off to the right side of the radiator(looking from the front of vehicle)... it wont work ... as that fan is only commanded on when the a/c is running
is your implication that your legs are as smooth as my clutch engages?
thats fucked up lol
i dont know how i should react to that...
i guess i should ask if your waxing or shaving
haha
speaking of which i've gotta shave my asshole, fucken dingle-berries
HAHA
cutting...
dont know why anyone ever tries to see how fast it can go.... do any of you even have Z rated tires? ...
its so much risk to go that fast as it takes so long to get there, and the longer it takes to get there.. the more time your over the speed limit... and the more time your over the speed...
yea your right, i will do it right... ive spent too much to fuck around... and like it was said, i have a lift and it shouldnt be that hard..
as far as lightening a cast flywheel, i know its kind of taboo... but i dont think it will be a problem... as im not ridge racer, lol
i think so...
recently when i rebuilt my engine... i cleaned all my intake parts and what not... and while doing so, i found the EGR tube in the intake COMPLETELY blocked.. as well as that tiny ass tube off the egr valve..
just something to keep in mind next time you have your intake off... it makes for a...
as far as cleaning the pistons and valves... you can usually find concentrated parts cleaner that you can soak the parts in for a few hours or so... that will remove everything... howver, if your not going to remove the pistons from the block... just STOP, leave that shit on the pistons... as...
thats a good procedure berniek.. i was honetly thinking of ways i could "just get by" without removing anything..
seems like it would work, however i do not have an access point to get the clutch bolts, as i have a N/A... but maybe i could get in through the hole for the clutch fork... or...
new clutch, for sure...
im not one for doing shit half assed lol... i wanted it done right the first time... so i wouldnt have to deal with this shit...
but i have to
yea i was afraid of that...
such a pain in the ass.... now i gotta pull the transmission out...
i was hoping that this rebuild would be the end of my problems.... haha, im sure your all loving that comment..
ok well live and learn i guess... god i love having a lift.... if i was...
damn that sucks
thanks for the speedy reply..
so i wanna be mad at him... but i think i should have done my research better and told him.... FUCK...
anyway... will not balancing it become an issue as far as premature wear on various engine parts??
ok.. so in a nutshell i rebuilt an engine
cylinders honed, new rings, rod and main bearings, all new seals.. yada yada yada
i also sent the flywheel out for resurfacing and a moderate lightening.. now that the engine is back together i have a vibration when free revving around 3k rpms ...
damn, thats a crazy idea..MacGyver-esk.... hahaha.
sounds like a solid idea, as a temporary fix... but wouldnt it take the same amount of time to actually diagnose it?
not to mention if this kid sucks at soldering.... that would make a shitty mess.. lol
did you test it while its running?
its a potentiometer.. and theres no continuity when there is no oil pressure... so if you dont get a ground signal from the connector with the car running.. then you either have no oil pressure or a faulty sensor..
if you do have a ground signal ... then...
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