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Isn't the Infinity 6 smaller than the stock ECU? Just create brackets to mount it to the stock location. Some bent sheet metal should work. My series 1 AEM fits in the stock ECU location with sheet metal brackets.

The lexus afm / 550 cc mod is essentially a scaled up version of the stock afm, and stock 440 injectors. The car will run *flawlessly* with the larger lexus afm housing and 550 injectors. It's a near perfect upgrade to allow more boost while still maintaining Toyota reliability. Absolutley...

I agree with everyone else. Forged piston motors will sound like that. That's very close to how mine sounds. Get it warm and it'll quiet down a bit. And I don't mean up to operating temp, I mean directly after driving it for a while.

Go to the person who is going to setup/tune the ECU and ask them what they feel comfortable using. That will get you the best results.

My dual diaphragm rps sprung 6 puck has held whatever I through at it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you go with a new pump, go with that walbro E85 compatible pump. The F9000267. That's enough pump for a solid 700 wheel.

Look at your map and see what the timing is at the spot you're seeing the issue.

Did you ever get rid of that stock pump??? a stock pump needs upgraded whenever the turbo is upgraded. Even a mild ct upgrade will require a new pump. One can see this by looking at fuel pressure under boost. It'll slowly drop off. Drop in one of those new Walbro e85 compatible pumps and...

Try this. Rather than starting the car, turn the key to "on" for 3 seconds, then back to "acc". Perform this cycle 5 times allowing 3 seconds between each one. What this does is commands the fuel pump on to build pressure in the system. You will build pressure each time you perform this key...

Some of us have zero issues with the stock coils and igniter on a V1.

alanjordan@gmail (dot) com if you want some help. It'll come to my phone and I'll and answer quickly. That goes for anyone. IJ, Dwayne, Ron Ram included. ;) lol BTW, how is my lapping plate Dwayne and Ron?

Stress relieving the rods with shot was cheap. I think It may have been less than $100 for a set of rods.

Increase your cranking fuel vs temp. map. That's typically what will cause long starts. But only in the lower temps.

Or get a pair of T4 flanges and some gaskets.

I would just run a 6262 rather than a 58mm turbo. get the newest technology out there. FWIW, I had a turbonetics ts04 (58mm turbo) on my 7m for many years. good turbo. My GT4088R witch is 5mm bigger spools just the same from a roll. Technology is much better in the later turbo.

Record?? You guys need to keep chasing. :) An old school supra guy did it in early 2004 with a level 10 auto, stock ct26, spearco, drag radials, and a g-force ecu. 12.3@111

I used a brass 1/8NPT Hex plug for my bung. Just drill and tap the thing and it's good to go. Make sure you use a hex head bung as a square head will not work as well.

I'll be around.. no car though as it's still on stands. At least it is unless I get motivated to finish it up today.

If you're looking at the scratches in the babbit material, then it's fine. Don't remove the babbit material either. Just let it go, it'll be fine. Read Reg Reimer's tech notes on the 7m at www.supras.com (follow the SONiC link) for more information.

I'm not saying the AEM is perfect, but I'm also not saying the others are. I bet one could find some ViPEC threads where the poster/tuner is claiming the ecu is the cause of all the issues. I doubt any could find ANY ECU that has had zero negative posts. I have read about problems with AEM...