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swaybar end link would be my first guess, but while I had the wheel off I'd check everything.

Never heard of them, snap some pictures if you can

If you must stay on stock springs, that will probably make the best difference. I'd really recommend coilovers though.

If the engine is out, the car will sit quite a bit higher. I'd wait till its back in before making your decision

The stocker is a 1.5-way. I haven't taken one apart in 5 years, but if I remember correctly the ramp profiles were more on the cam more than the housing. I've got a spare lsd sitting in the parts car though and I'll see if I can get some time this week to take it apart and snap some pics

Steering rack spacers are used to allow the front wheels to turn a little more when at full lock -- lowering the car doesn't make any difference. If you like to drift or find yourself doing a lot of tight maneuvering then you'll find them helpful. Otherwise, you can pass.

For ~$1000 that is the best way to go. 935motorsports sells a package, but basically bilsteins, threaded collars/perches, and hypercoils. Ideally you'd send your bilsteins in to be revalved specifically for your desired spring rates. There's a lot more info on this setup in the road racing...

My first guess is that its due to your volt meter. The voltage spikes don't last long -- I'd doubt a dial VM could even react in time. A digital gauge might be able to flash the peak voltage, but it would quickly drop back down to the normal. So I'd try datalogging it instead

I ran into the same thing when determining whether to setup knock control on the AEM. If I set up the thresholds low enough to capture knock at cruise, it would get false knocks under load due to all the background noise. It was so frustrating I finally just gave up and wound up tuning the...

With a machpherson strut, lateral loads go primarily through the lower A-arms, but because there is a moment about the hub, there is a smaller reactionary force going through the strut itself. That force can make the strut towers flex, making a strut tower bar helpful. With a double-wishbone...

you can enter part numbers online with champion toyota: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213747 none of those come up for me

The shifter panel is different between auto and manuals. If you want to go completely OEM, you'll want to order part number 58281-14100 from Toyota ($45 list price, almost certainly special order). I would imagine it is spot-welded and seam-sealed from the factory. Otherwise, you could fab...

Bwahahah that 4th run made me giggle -- looks like you had a blast. Looks like the car is fairly well-sorted too. I'd recommend some minor alignment changes to help with low-speed understeer, but you'd just want to change it again before going back to hpde's...

Ian, I've heard about this a couple of times and here's the most recent thread on it: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96336 So far I don't know anyone who has actually made sure that it a) fits b) is significantly stronger than the T1 So I'm very much looking forward to...

Go with a 3.7 or 3.9 imo

I count 14... Is yours an older 3-row or the current one?

Someone save this car: http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/1394959246.html I'd buy it, but I don't need another project and I'm done with trying to part stuff out. The car is in pretty decent shape overall - driver's rear 1/4 has been previously dented (and pulled, but its a little wavy). Back...

If anyone with a mishimoto can actually count their fins/inch I'd appreciate it. I got 7.25 from their website, but maybe thats supposed to be 17.25?

any updates?

Doh, you're right. But I didn't notice any difference in physics between 3 and 4 (and really, not a huge difference in physics between 1/2 and 3). 4's graphics were better (they were like the 2 special stage tracks on GT3), but the game as a whole felt slightly more arcade-like. On the...