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There are a few changes made to the chassis wiring that affects your problem. I cant think of anywhere that anyone has documented what exactly it was. I know it affects the headlights and the gauges but other than that....Everything I have read had them swapping in a correct chassis year ECM and...

All it takes is one of their crimp connections to come loose and it wont start. If you arent familiar with the wiring then get it sent back to them. They should be liable for the tow as they just did the install.

Shouldnt move any noticeable amount. Sounds like your rack bushings are worn or gone. especially the passenger side one.

Check the steering wheel and column for spline engagement or stripped splines. Had an old Fazda PU that was like that.

That car is stunning with the mouldings in place.

With the exception of the wing, the car looks remarkably well kept.

I could only be remembering the V and leaving out a I somewhere. They say memory is the first thing to go. I was just wanting clarification on the synthetic suggestion. Seems like that word is a catch all these days.

On imports all I do is loosen the bolt up to the point it has a few threads left on. Then place your elbows on your knees with arms pointing up behind the wheel. A little tug and it pops free. As long as you left the nut on your safe. If you pulled the nut all the way off you may need to nurse...

Should still work but I wanted more to cope with the heat down here. Stop and go traffic is murderous on the A/C and cooling systems.

Would you recommend a synthetic such as Dex V or something like Royal Purple Dex III spec?

I swapped the main harness becuase I got cool new features as well. Supermonitor harness was a bonus as well as PnP CC unit and front aux fan.

No mention of how dangerous a RHD car is in a LHD environment? For a show/track car, I say if you have the money. go for it. For a DD or such, There are enough idiots with cell phones clogging the road without adding complications to the mix.

Boost could get excessive enough that it would overcome the check valve. That is why there is a valve and vacuum pump on the GTE unit. Interesting about the cable hook-up. It wouldnt work on the turbo to NA conversion I did. Owner didnt care for cruise so I didnt investigate it further. I...

The NA CC unit only has one connection and one vacuum port to work. The GTE CC unit however has 3 connections and onve vacuum/pressure port. The extra connections control the vacuum switch and the vacuum pump so that the CC unit can maintain speed even under boost situations. All of these...

I went through steps 2-4 repeatedly until the valve was back up where it belonged. It took some finesse to get it back up and I do not ever want to try it again.

Those are the A/C fan switch pugs. Your early NA chassis isnt going to have the pulg for those unless you swap the main harness out. You also will not have a working cruise conrol without swapping main harness.

Fixt!

O my....that was really bad. Do over?

Looks like a fancy boat anchor to me. :biglaugh: I wouldnt use that head on my motor.

Funny, I never felt the urge to use that word as I watched that valve fall and the air rush out. I think I called it everything but god.