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Wrapped mine from the elbow down. The pipe is thick enough that I wont worry about rust for a very long time. By the time I have a rust issue I am sure I will have another DP.

I used aluminum rods that are just slightly smaller then the accumalator springs. Didnt do anything to alter the line pressure. The 1-2 shift always breaks traction. It is a very firm shift. Some might find it uncomfortable. I can tell it is going to be a challenge in the rain. For the most part...

No 5 spd swap for me. I actually enjoy the ease of the automatic. Right now there is only 89k on the odometer. The car spent most of its life with people that didnt understand how to work on these cars. Hopefully by the end of this week I will have al the peices together and can get some pics of...

The full exhuast system helped my boost cut issue a little. I can just make it to 6000 RPM now before I hit it. Actuator is connected properly with good hose. Appears to be working properly with no hang-ups. I cant acuratley gauge the pressure to open it as my regulator wont allow me to go lower...

Stock CT26 and wastegate with a Driftmotion 'Freddy' BOV vented to atmosphere. No boost controllers or shims anywhere.

Finally have it back on the road. Tommorrow I will take it to the exhaust shop and have my exhaust pipes and muffler hung. Open downpipe sounds really cool for the first few minutes but gets old really fast. Transmission shifts really hard. Usually chirping into 2nd gear. Guess I got it right...

Wow is all I can think to say. :nono: :nono: :nono: :nono: :nono:

Indeed. I was secretly hoping you would come finish it for me. Since I was tired of waiting, I just did my damn self. Thank you. It has been quite the learning expirience for me.

Still busy on this thing. Mounted the IC and piping. Got everything routed and wired how I wanted in the engine compartment. Fired the car up tonite and it purrs like a kitten. Now I have to finish building my instrument cluster and put my interior back together. Should be in...

Just do the Miata right... http://videos.streetfire.net/video/My-98-Corvette-tunned-by_146893.htm

The Dremel will be almost useless except for some of the smaller final details. A 4 1/2" grinder is what you really need. Will also need the coarse and fine surface conditioning pads that can be found in most hardware stores along with polishing pads to fit your grinder and clay bars/sticks...

The funny thing about that statement is it is no good towards a certification to work with R12 freon. There is a totaly seperate program for the license to work with R12/22.

Easiest way I have ever found to test a harness. http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(cewsf1452aqklr55iuryzz55))/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7001084_0006398698

Mine arrived today!! Very nicely done. Thanks for doing this. Will have to get more on the next run.

The blankets and egg cartons do help some but very little when you consider the effort put into it. Accoustical tile helps the most but is a little pricey and is mounted permanently. The best thing to remember about sound deadening is that air pockets do the most.

Rebuild it yourself? Dont know how confident you are in your mechanical ability. Take a look at what it is. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61055&page=4

Timmy! Sorry, first name to pop in my head. The wire in your first pic either goes from the + battery to the main fuse box or is the alternator.

Need to find out if the black deposit is oil or fuel soot.

Welcome to the site. Glad Kens car will still be around and in good hands. Here is everything you will need to know about it. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40138

^^You're an exception not the standard. :D