Search results

WARNING: Car may run like ass after having been disrobed for extended periods. Be supportive and remember... she's the bashful type, ya big lug. Uhh.... nope, can't say I recall that.

Have either of you considered putting a metal sleeve over the welded portion and then welding that on? An overlapping reinforcement... would that perhaps remedy the concern of breaking the welds?

The adjustment lever inside adjusts by percentage. So if you're off by 10% (ie you do 30 it says 33, you do 60 it says 66) then you can use the lever. If it's always off by 5, pull off the needle and put it back on where it needs to be.... sad that it has to be said, but it has come up before.

I hadn't read about someone breaking one of Nash's, but I did figure it was only a matter of time.

Is that Ebay one a Mookeeh? I thought they were height adjustable (well, the first gen or second... the one that looks like that, not the thin one). Sorry for posting my thoughts about the SOGI mod... hadn't intended for it to become the new topic in this thread... yes, it's been beat to death...

You may find more information on this in the GTE section. Someone's running MS on a 7M-GTE, but I don't know of anyone running it an a 7M-GE that's why I recommend checking the GTE section (possibly the General Discussion section too).

Webbs take some time with your posts... they're almost impossible to read. People have run as high as 12psi for an extended period on pump gas and a stock HG. I think the longest running N/A-T on here is at 10psi though with a stock HG. I'm sure you could calculate the CR given the actual...

http://www.brandwood.net/supra/handbook/1/1/instrument_cluster_lhd.html

Probably directed at all of us for not clarifying... could be directed just at me too though, some of these terms and the difference tend to blur a bit when I start thinking about 20yo motors where not everything's cut and dry. I'm aware as well, but for the benefit of the masses, pre-ignition...

Pre-Ignition = a manic Pyrokinetic Detonation = Pyrokinetic with Touret's I do research stuff on my own. Naturally, given that the internet (and even published references) is horribly prone to the proliferation of rumors and "accepted fact" it is difficult to avoid completely. I've double...

Then keep waiting because there's a LOT missing... hell your post was contrary to his and had more relevant info. The previous poster (granted, much like this entire thread) was vague and relied on a number of assumptions... some are complete BS. Octane doesn't effect power, huh? Riiiiiiight...

That's him... that's my boy... <CRE wipes away single tear>... I knew him back when he drove a Honda... <CRE buries face in hanky>

No you shouldn't.... as me how I know. ;) You should also further explain your position when making a statement like the one you intended... not required, just polite. I know that had I not done my research and just bought linear springs for my DD I would have been VERY unhappy...

Hehe.... talk about a thread hijack. :icon_razz Alex, remind me what pressure you're running? I wouldn't run less than mid 30's with most injectors... but I don't know as much as IJ. ;) Personally, for a 200 to 250 RWHP car I wouldn't expect to run anything bigger than ~360. 440's would be...

It's amazing to me... half the people on this forum NEVER have to "burp the system" and the other half do it once a week... What's the deal with that?

I'm telling you AJ... those 550's have got to go... Then there are the wiring changes, but we'll cover that separately. ;)

variable hieght/set height.... springs??? what the hell are you talking about?! ALL springs require time to settle and level per the constant load on them... period it's a matter of physics. There is the difference of progressive versus linear, but that has NOTHING to do with height.

Wiring diagrams: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/ This is for a '89 or '90, there are some differences between the '89 and newer and the pre89 models, but the majority is accurate.

:nono: I wish I had 40 friends.....

My steel 1pc does that. I don't have any more play in the diff than you'd expect. The long hollow tube doesn't help quiet it either. If everything's tight your only real option is rebuilding the diff and making it nice and tight (especially on the input side). EDIT: Oh. but mine doesn't "ring"...